Slime Tire Sealant

Walked outside the other day and noticed my front passenger tire was almost completely flat.  That tire has been an enigma for months.  Sometimes it goes flat.  Sometimes it holds air.  Sometimes it leaks slowly.  For a vehicle that I drive on average about 200-300 miles a month I decided to try an "experiment" rather than replace the tires which could be about $1,000.

I did some research and decided to go with Slime Tire Sealant to see if it would address the issue.  Products like Fix-A-Flat claim to only be good for a few miles while Slime claims to seal for up to 2 years.

Per Slime's site it is basically a liquid that contains fibers and rubber particles which form a plug as the leak/puncture forces the liquid out.  So in theory I'll also be able to see where the hole is if I can see any green spots at which point I could use a plug or patch on the tire as a better long-term fix.

To use the product I simply removed the valve core using the supplied tool, filled the completely flat tire with the recommended amount of sealant, re-installed the valve core, and aired up the tire.  They recommend driving about .2 miles but I ended up going a little further because I drove to the gas station and topped off all the tires since my small 12v pump is too slow.

So far it has been over 24 hours and the tire still had air in it and looked like it was still full.  I didn't check yet.  I'm going to check it in a few days.  But so far so good.  Expect updates as time goes on.

Update 12/29/14:  So I've had the Slime in the tire for about 3 weeks now and tire has been holding air.  I did have to top the tire off on Friday because it was down about 2-3psi.  In fairness, 3 of my 4 tires were a little low and they didn't have Slime in them.  Could have been due to the colder temps here in Dallas of late.

I also added some Slime to a leaky tire on my other car and it seems to have stopped the leak problem I was having in it.  I will say having put Slime in 2 tires on 2 vehicles I do feel like it does throw the tire balance off a little.

Update 01/10/15:  As I mentioned before, I don't drive the Bronco much except mostly to take it off roading.  I'm about to upgrade to 35s from 33s so just trying to get the last few miles out of these tires that I can.

Another tire started acting up.  Upon inspection I found that tire had 2-3 small nails in it.  Not surprising because there has been a lot of construction all over Dallas.  Hit that tire with a bottle of Slime.  I now have 2 Slimed tires on the vehicle that I can compare to the 2 regular tires.

I took measurements tonight and will provide updates in the morning on the change (if any) in tire pressure.

Update 1/12/15: An interesting note I found yesterday thanks to some mud on my rim that one of the tire leaks was around the rim.  After airing the tire up and driving a while it help constant pressure.  This morning all tires were still full of air.

A $400 Day Wheeling

So I took the Bronco out wheeling over the weekend and quickly turned it into a $400 day in repairs.

While going up an incline I lost power and as it turns out the rear axle yoke broke.  Upon closer inspection later on I determine that the yoke was basically compromised from years of use and finally quit at an inopportune time.

I was able to drive home in 4-Hi after I disconnected the rear drive shaft.  The original water pump also died on the way back at a respectable 177,500+ miles.  I also found out that I needed a special sized U-Joint since the drive shaft was custom to fit the '89 transfer case I installed earlier in the year.

The drive shaft shop found that the CV joint was toast too so that had to be rebuilt.  So $400 for a yoke, pinion seals (why not), new U-Joint retainers, and a water pump.  In fairness, I bought the water pump a while back but $400 in parts are going on the truck this weekend.

New Battery & Paint Job

Stopped to get gas in the Bronco and it wouldn't start back up.  Luckily my buddy lived nearby and was able to give me a jump.  I ran over to the parts store and about $160 later I had a new battery.  We checked the old battery and it was just over 5 years old so that's pretty good.

Regarding the paint job... when I bought the Bronco the previous owner had sprayed the top with a camo matter and also continued it along the rocker panels.  I've had a couple ideas about doing a full paint job but since this is an off road rig I didn't feel like going too crazy with paint and prep.

For prep I wiped all the areas I was going to paint with denatured alcohol.  I taped off the areas I wanted to paint and hit it with a quick coat of all-in-one primer & paint.  I didn't sand between coats and I probably did about 3-4 coats on the bottom and 2-3 coats on the top which I removed to paint.

Here is a before and after.  The wrinkle in the back is where I rubbed a tree while wheeling.

All fixed up

So very lucky no damage aside from a new diff cover.  Turns out one of the little helpers (kids) put a tool in the diff before I closed it up and didn't see it.  Oh well; all good now.

Back into the Rear Diff

Fun stuff... fun stuff.

So the Bronco has been great since the rear-end "rebuild" (brakes, bearings, seals, etc) and I'd been driving it all over the place.  So I get to my destination yesterday and when I come back outside there is a pool of rear diff fluid.

My initial thought was somehow the RTV seal failed but closer inspection revealed a hole in the rear diff cover.  It looks like from the inside out but clearly not catastrophic as the vehicle drives great.

The current theory is maybe a tooth on a gear broke.  It could be part of a broken bearing, a piece of dried mud with a rock / other debris, etc but I won't really know until I crack the case open and really look.

If it is a gear tooth you could run like that but for off roading it means less power to the rear which might cause some issues.

I'll know more once I crack it open and look.  The good thing was there was plenty of diff fluid still leaking when I got the Bronco home so minimal risk of any additional damage.

Rear-End Overhaul

So I mentioned in one post I thought a wheel brake cylinder was leaking and then in another post I said it looked like an axle seal.  It was actually both!

I started by lifting the leaky side (rear driver's side) with a jack and placed the driver's side of the rear axle on a jack stand.  I could see fluid all over the inside of the hub as shown in the left photo. In the right photo you can see fluid leaking out of the end cap of the wheel cylinder; the shiny spot below my thumb.

I also noticed that the brake shoes were looking really bad.  Again as you can see in the left photo part of the shoe was actually broken on one side.  The right photo also shows the new shoe to give an idea of how far down the shoes were worn.  Keep in mind I bought this Bronco in Feb 2014 so a lot of these things were worn well prior to my time and I'm learning about them as they come up.  That's part of owning an old car especially if you don't know the history on it.  Just expect things to break periodically and going to the parts store to fix it.

So back to the axle seal... to do that you have to lift both sides of the axle and it put on jack stands.  Two reasons for this ... 1) you have to remove the axle and 2) if one side is leaking the other side is probably not far off either.

So one you get the rear-end on jack stands you need to crack open the rear diff.  To do this set a big pan below to catch the fluid and remove the bolts around the cover.  I recommend keeping one bolt (half way out) at the top so the pan doesn't fall into pan and make a mess.  Once the bolts are off you need to use a rubber mallet or comparable to tap the cover until the sealant gives and the pan comes loose.  You may need to pry the cover but do so gently so you don't bend the edges of the pan.

Once the pan is empty you have to remove the bolt holding the pin between the two shafts.  In the left picture you can see the pin its the cylinder in the middle of the picture.  The pin's head is facing the passenger's side and you need a wrench to loosen it and then it slides out.  You can see the pin in the right picture.

When the pin comes out the bolt should slide out easily.  Don't freak out if a spider gear comes out, you can put it back in place.  Now that the bolt is out you can push the axle on each side in towards the diff and it will have a C shaped retainer you can remove (picture below with the bolt, pin, and diff cover bolts).

Remove the axle shafts and then you'll have access the the axle seals and bearings.  I used a seal puller to pull the leaky axle seal.  One of the interesting things was someone tried to previously repair the seal leak with RTV around leaky axle seal.  It clearly worked as a temporary fix for a few months but its not a long term solution.  And while this sounds like a lot of work its not hard to do if you have the right tools.

Funny enough one of the bearings was stuck so I rented a bearing puller from the auto parts store.  Worked great and then the other side came out no issue with a light pull but many parts stores have free tool rental so it saved what could have been more headache.

Installing the new bearings was easy.  Use a bearing race and driver kit and pound the bearing in until it stops. Then pound the axle seal in place.  Some people will try and use wood or something to hammer in a bearing and I find spending a few dollars on the right tool makes the process easy and ensures you don't damage a bearing/seal or drive it in crooked.

Once all that is done you slide the axles back in, connect the C clamps, put the bolt in, and re-attach the pin.  Run a good bead of RTV around the diff cover (lean off old sealant thoroughly first) and close it up.  The front of the diff on the driver's side has a 3/8" plug that you can remove to re-fill.  I uses a transfer pump and you keep pumping until diff fluid leaks out of the plug hole.  Ideally you want the truck to be on a level surface for this.

For the brakes I bought new hardware, wheel cylinders, brake cleaner, and a big bottle of brake fluid. Easiest way to replace the brakes it take a picture and use it as reference to put everything on.  Having a spring puller is helpful in terms of tools.

You'll need to bleed the brakes which is a 2 person job.  One person needs to hold the brake down while the other loosens the brake line at each wheel.  This should be done several times until the line no longer bubbles when the line is opened.  This normally takes about 4-6 attempts per side.

I was about $100 in parts for two bearings, two axle seals, two wheel brake cylinders, a brake hardware kit, and brake shoe kit plus brake and diff fluid.

Axle Seals

Upon further review the issue doesn't seem to be the brake cylinder as I mentioned but actually a rear axle seal leak.  You need 2 seals (one for each side) and they're normally about $5/ea.  Its a good time to replace bearings as well.

I have the parts but it will be a few weeks before I can do the work.

Be sure to order these seals sooner than later because most auto parts stores do not keep them on hand and they have to be ordered.

Updates upcoming when this project is complete.

Misc Odds and Ends

So in keeping with documenting things a potential owner or current owner of a Bronco might want to anticipate... more little things I'll have to address and some tidbits.

There was a big accident in Dallas towards the end of June and I was idling it the Bronco for well over an hour.  When traffic cleared I found that I couldn't accelerate and it was behaving funny.  I was able to pull into a gas station and determine it wasn't a fuel issue.  It acted like the battery was dead but I checked it and it was fine.  Radiator was full though I did notice some white smoke before the engine died.  After waiting for a buddy to give me a rescue tow to his place it miraculously started!

On the advice of a friend I tested the fan clutch as it was likely the engine had overheated [the temp gauge hasn't worked since I bought the Bronco].  A simple clutch test is to see how hard it is to turn when the engine his hot.  There should be resistance.

The fan spins freely when the vehicle is cold (since you want the engine to heat up to an optimal temp) but once the engine is to temp the clutch will engage locking the fan clutch into the same rotation speed as the engine for optimal cooling of the radiator fluid.  So in my case I wasn't getting enough cooling of the radiator fluid and eventually I overheated.  Once the engine cooled and I was at highway speed the air cooling kept the fluid cool.  So $60 and about 6 bolts later problem solved.  I also picked up a water pump for $30 and a thermostat to have when the time comes.

Next issue after all that was one of my 33s went flat.  Plugged a hole and found another one I couldn't patch so I had to put the spare on.  So next up will be another spare 33" tire.  I can probably find a used one for $50.

Lastly, I noticed that the brake performance has been getting poorer and found that brake fluid was leaking from that same wheel that went flat.  So that means the wheel cylinder is leaking.  The generic store brand part is about $10 and you might as well do both sides.  The store brand brake shoes are about $20/side.  So you're looking at about $60 in parts plus labor.  I'll probably handle this one over the weekend.

Dodge Grille Guard Install

I helped a buddy clean up one of his properties and he was nice enough to give me a grille guard off his old Dodge and bull horns.  I just felt they looked the part on this vehicle.  Let's be honest nothing about a Bronco says political correctness, conformity, green initiatives, or subtle.  And nothing about 33s, a winch, bull horns, or a grill guard says those things either.  Perfect match.

What wasn't a perfect match was mounting the damn grille guard!  There were no brackets and no good point to really make one to bolt it on.  If you'll recall from the winch install I used a steel plate bolted to the frame with a winch plate on top of it.  That was probably overkill but honestly I'd rather have too much than not enough if I have to winch out of a situation.

So ultimately I welded the guard onto the bottom of the winch plate.  Granted the welds might break if I really rammed into something hard enough but then again probably bigger problems if that occurs.

Harbor Freight Badland 9000lb Winch Fixed!

Been a while since I've done an update (been busy) but I fixed my winch the other day!

In April I installed a winch (see another post for the details on that) and the first day out on the trail, stuck in a really muddy spot, the winch didn't work!

As I may or may not have mentioned I bypassed the solenoid and ran power directly to the winch.  It was working but only in one direction.  A future thought was maybe when we welded the winch plate we forgot to unhook the battery and might have fried the solenoid.

So I was driving around with my winch line wrapped around my cut front bumper and before I knew it the 90 day warranty on the winch was up!

So before I bought another solenoid or winch I decided to re-evaluate the winch situation.  Luckily, I removed the old bumper and it made accessing the winch and plate much easier than with the bumper on.

The issue I was easily able to spot was simply that a small wire (probably 18 gauge) running into the winch and solenoid box had broken.  You can see the wire below (look at the red wire on the left side and you'll see that tiny dirty wire).   Reconnected that wire and back in business!

I left the cover off so you can sort of see what is inside the solenoid box.  As you can see there are numerous connector types and some bolts so any of these things could easily come loose.  As an added measure I ran some RTV around the edges before putting the box back on and plugged some holes (I left one small one open) to help prevent any water intrusion.

33s

A buddy ended up selling me his old tires because he was looking to get a bigger size.  These 33x10.5r15 tires fit my existing rims perfectly.  They do rub a little when making sharp turns but otherwise they work flawlessly.  There is an increase in road noise on the highway but its not like the Bronco is a quiet vehicle to start with.

The photo above was from a few weeks back.  Unfortunately, all the mud/water fried my solenoid on my winch so I will be working on repairing that soon.

Another issue was the power steering pump went out.  It was working intermittently but the Bronco is not easy to turn at low speeds without the pump.  The picture above is the old pump.  I was able to purchase a reman unit with reservoir from the parts store for about $65 and I'll get another $7 or so back when I return the old unit.

Winch Install

Installed a winch over the last few weeks but just now getting around to writing up the blog about it.

My buddy and I ended up reusing the stock bumper but we cut it down and made some modifications to make everything fit to give more of a stock look.

The first step was removing the bumper, supports, etc.  You basically just need some wrenches or sockets to do this but we used an air impact wrench.

For my install, I removed the frame horns because I installed a piece of plate steel to go between the frame rails.  Part of that was for strength and another part of that was the winch plate that I bought from Harbor Freight wasn't wide enough to go rail to rail.

In the photo above you can see the plate (which was painted black) and the winch plate sitting on top of it.  The key thing is that you have a strong connection to the frame and a strong mounting point for the winch.  There are 4 bolts holding the plate to the frame and 4 bolts holding the winch to the plate.  Because I wanted my setup to be recessed I had to take the control box off and lay it to the side.

For the bumper we used a considerable number (probably a dozen) cutting wheels and cut the bumper down and angled the edges to give more of an aggressive look. You'll notice most vehicles built for actual off road use have higher bumpers and/or don't fully extend the width of the vehicle. Search Google images for 'off road vehicle' if you don't believe me!  This is to make sure your tire (not your bumper) can contact obstacles and you have drive over them.  For this reason, we cut the stock bumper to clear the tires and then did some cosmetic things to make it look better.  It was all freehand with the cutting wheel with a few markings to give a basic path to follow.

We also cut a hole for the fair lead to go through.  For a template we just measured and drilled some holes at the corners and drew a line to follow.

Be sure to take a rasp and smooth the edges too because sides will be sharp and you don't want to cut yourself!

To re-attach the bumper and ensure we had enough room to reach in and access the in/out lever on the winch an plug in the remote the modded bumper had to be attached differently.  The solution we used was to cut the bumper mounts down to match the new width of the bumper and then use longer bolts and about 2 dozen (give or take) washers to space the bumper forward.

After all that we also decided to go back and weld the steel plate to the frame just to make sure everything was secure and to make it a little more difficult to steal.  You may want to tack weld a bolt holding your winch on too for this reason in case the bolts are readily accessible so someone doesn't undo a few bolts and run off with your winch!

Little Fixes and Tweaks

Had a fun moment the other day.  Bronco ran fine driving to my destination.  I got back in and it wouldn't turn over.  I tried jigging some wires and adding a gallon of gas.  I was finally able to get started enough to coast into the gas station.

Filled up the tank (it only filled a little less than the gauge said) but nothing.  After a few minutes I noticed that I couldn't hear the fuel pump running.  Sure enough the fuel pump wire was loose and securing the connection fixed it.

The next day I was checking fluid levels and noticed that there was a wire that only had 3 strands connected to the battery.  I couldn't readily trace where it went so I removed it.  Bronco wouldn't start.  So I cut and re-attached the wire correctly and started right up and actually felt like it was running better.

This week I replaced the 31x10.5r15 tires with some 33x12.5r15 tires.  My Bronco had 8.5" width rims so it was an easy swap.  I know some friends with other vehicles have 7.5" width rims and some major tire shops will not install 33s on them.

Oil change

Changed the oil on Friday night.  I used some Quaker State Defy 5w-30.  That oil has about 1000ppm of ZDDP which you need in engines running flat tappet cams like the '88 351W.

The zinc acts as a sacrificial coating and keeps parts from being worn down.  You can also find ZDDP additives but the price was right on that oil.  Most newer oils don't have these additives as the switch was made to roller cams and better technology exists to make sure metal surfaces don't rub.

I really like changing the oil on the 351w vs other engines.  The oil plug is on the bottom of the pan and the filter attaches to the side of the block at an angle so you don't spill oil everywhere when removing the filter because it mostly drains out!  With 31s on it I have more than enough room to get under and work without needing to lift the vehicle which is also nice.

I used a strap wrench to remove the filter as its a little tricky to get in there and get good leverage on it.

I'm not sure what oil was in there or the condition of it.  I did notice that my oil pressure gauge doesn't bounce around often at idle when the engine is warm like it was.  So maybe the oil was really old and a little sludgy. 

Bearing Replacement

So the list I included in the previous post was correct but there were two additional bearings.  They are in the spindle and relatively small.  I want to say the part # was B2110 but don't quote me on that.

I also went and bough some new seals for the spindle seals.  One presses in on the back of the spindle and the other traps grease on the front of the spindle.

You'll need a few tools if you don't have them to replace the bearings.

1. Bearing puller to remove the smaller bearings and races
2. Race driver to hammer in new pressed seals
3. Spindle socket.  I found the Lisle tool to be the best.  The OEM Tools one had 4 prongs that stick out and didn't match.

I also did ball joints so I needed the ball joint tool (looks like a giant clamp).

There are a lot of parts in the automatic hub and I'll have to post pictures at some point or find a link because it is not hard but a little involved to get everything back in order the right way.

Off Road Notes from 3/9/14

I took the Bronco out on Sunday to 4-wheel it a little to see how it would do with a working transfer case. It was a night and day difference!  I hit the same 3 trails where my Bronco got stuck without a working transfer case and needed a buddy to help pull me out of a few spots... this time no issues!

Cleaning the IAC fixed the stalling issue which was also appreciated when I was at stops.  The oil gauge starts to fluctuate at idle from side-to-side when the engine is warm so I will be changing out the sending unit to see if that is the issue.  If the problem persists it will be time to drop the oil pan and change the pump.  The key thing is the engine runs fine which seems to indicate a sensor vs a real oil pressure issue.

The main weakness I found with the Bronco this time out was with the 31x10.5 tires.  My buddy has 33's on his Jeep and he had no trouble in a few places where my differential would get caught.  The extra clearance from bigger tires would help with that.

There was also a period of time with some really annoying squealing which appears to be wheel bearing related.  Didn't matter 2wd vs 4wd.  Eventually the squeaky went away so I suspect the bearing worked itself back into place.  The local part store chain here sold me all the bearing parts I needed for $40 plus tax so that is cheap insurance and a little bit of work to address that concern.  I suspect if 1 bearing need replacement the others are not far behind.  Allegedly (will confirm in a future post) there is an inner and outer bearing on each side of the front axle and one bearing for each side in the back.  IE you'll need 2 bearings a side (4 total) for the front and two for the back.  Also note they're not the same.  For me the fronts are A35 and A37.  The rears are #6408.  Check for your application but this is for a '88 Bronco with stock axles.

I believe in the '91+ models they may have some extra parts from what I found searching around online.

Lastly, I also decided to buy some new ball joints to address the sloppy steering.

I'm hoping to complete the work this weekend and will also be adding a winch.  I also have a few other projects in the pipeline.  Always work to be done on older vehicles!

Low Pressure Fuel Pump Installed

I bought a low pressure fuel pump from O'Reilly on Saturday and it solved the problem of the Bronco dying around half a tank.

I purchased the entire assembly (pump, fuel gauge, etc) for about $99 + tax.  My tank was metal and it had a metal retaining ring that hold the pump in place.

First you have to remove the feed and return fuel line and sender.  The sender simply unplugs.  My feed line had a plastic clip that easily came off.  The return line was hose clamped on.  Fuel will come out of these fittings so keep them propped up.  Some coat hanger is handy to build a simple bracket.  You might want to use some tape to mark the lines just in case but the one with the hose clamp was my return line so that is how I remembered which is which.

To prevent sparks around fuel it is best to use something like a brass punch to knock the ring loose.  I used a pry bar that I wrapped with cloth and electrical tape as a makeshift solution.  You simply put your "punch" against one of the 3 tabs and using a hammer knock the ring counter clockwise.

The pump assembly lifts out but be careful; the barrel on my old pump fell off during removal.  It takes some maneuvering but the whole assembly will come out.

Then replace the unit.  Secure the pump using retaining ring, reconnect the lines, and you're done.

Note:  The access panel was great because my return line was leaking which I easily fixed by opening the access hatch.  If you don't have a hatch you might want to test connections for leaks prior to putting everything back together.

 

 

UPDATE 3/28/14: There are two notches on the bottom of the tank low pressure pump which match up to two holes on the lip of the fuel tank.  You need to make sure the pump is lined up and those notches are in place.  It may mean the pump points slightly off to one side.  I did not have the notches lined up initially and it caused fuel to splash out when the tank was full even though the pump appeared to be locked properly in place.  Also make sure the tank o-ring/seal is lined up to provide a proper seal.

How To Flat Tow a Bronco

Just a quick post on flat towing.  This really only works well for short distance towing since there will be dash lights on/etc.  Towing on a trailer would be better.

Setup:
You will need a tow bar, the appropriate bracket hardware, and some type of towing light setup.  I used a 5,000lb tow bar and magnetic lights.  The tow bar brackets were attached to the bumper.

Procedure:
1.  Attach Bronco to tow vehicle via tow bar.

2. You will put the transfer case in neutral.  I have a manual shift so I did this by putting the transmission in neutral and shifting.  You'll know you are in neutral when there are no drive lights on the dash and in drive on the transmission you don't go anywhere.

3.  Turn the Bronco to the accessory position.  The transmission can be in park or neutral; doesn't matter since its disconnected at this point from the transfer case.

4. You need the accessory position on so the steering wheel won't lock.  However, you'll likely notice that the fuel pump is still running.  Go under the Bronco and pull the power for the fuel pump. It is a red wire at the front (pointing towards the engine).  This is optional but I feel like it is better for the pump and consumes less power (less battery drain).  Also be sure to turn off radio and other accessories.  You'll still have 2 dash lights illuminated as you tow.

5. Ensure turn signal lights are connected and working properly.  Make sure safety chain is connected properly.

Transfer Case Repair -- Done

So the transfer case debacle is done and my Bronco is up and running again.

The main lessons learned was the '89 BW1356 isn't 100% compatible with '88 due to flange change and rear output shaft diameter change.

Parts costs were:
1. Salvaged '89 BW1356: $266
2. Driveshaft modification:  $300
3. Replacement transfer case seal (one looked bad): $25
4. ATF fluid (2 quarts for transfer case): $13

Total: $604.

For the cost it might have been cheaper to rebuild the old case or not; I'll do a post on that eventually.  But I do have a backup transfer case so that is a plus.

Low Pressure Fuel Pump Access Hatch

As I mentioned in an earlier article my '88 dies when the tanks is about half full.  If you top it off with some additional gas it starts up and runs fine.

From my research it appears this specific issue is due to the low pressure fuel pump inlet getting clogged.  As you can imagine a 25+ year old vehicle's fuel tank probably has some gunk in it.

Your first option is to drop the fuel tank but for my Bronco which I take 4-wheeling mostly I wanted a quick way to fix a potential problem should it occur.

My solution was to drill an access hole above the fuel tank inside the cab.

 

 

As you can see from the picture above I added some hinges that were riveted in to easily open and close the hatch.  I'm going to add some weather stripping and a latch to help keep it closed.

 

Note: You DON'T want to puncture the fuel tank so you need to be extremely careful.  I used a jig saw on blocks of wood to ensure it wouldn't pierce the tank or spark.  Don't use an angle grinder because it will throw sparks.

 

Step 1:  Remove the Phillips screws holding the metal trim piece at back of the cargo area.

 

Step 2: Carpet will pull up.  I had some pieces laying under there that were old nasty wood pieces to help level the back and I threw them away.

 

Step 3: Measure for the tank.  I recommend going under the body and using either a long drill bit or some type of puncture tool to mark the boundaries of your hole.  Then gently drill holes so you can use the jig saw.  Remember: Lift the jig saw so it won't go all the want down and hit the top of the tank.  Also make sure your cutting path doesn't cut any fuel lines or wires.

 

Step 4:  Take a grinding wheel or something to smooth the edges of the access panel.  Apply weather stripping or other material to make form a good seal.  Consider hinges and a latch mechanism to keep the hatch closed and from rattling.

 

Step 5: Replace carpet and install trim piece.

 

There is a post at Full Size Bronco someone else did that is a similar hatch and has some measurements if you want to use them versus your own: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2238881

 

Note:  Fuel pump screws off and you'll want to use a shop vac or something to clean the area so you don't contaminate the fuel tank.

 

Rear Window Diagnostics

Allegedly the driveshaft shop was going to work on getting me a working driveshaft today but TBD since most of the Dallas metroplex is closed due to yesterday's sleet and overnight freezing temperatures.

I did have the opportunity over the weekend when it was 80 (gotta love Texas weather) to do some other work on the Bronco.

One issue was the rear window wouldn't roll up or down from the switch.  Initially, I checked the fuse but all the power stuff (power windows, power locks, rear window) are on the same fuse.  On the '88 there is a diagram on the panel when you remove the fuses that will tell you what is what and which fuse controls which functions.  It will be pretty obvious when a fuse goes because you will lose a lot of functionality at once it seems.

Anyhow, on the window.  I removed the handful of screws keeping the back panel on and was able to access the motor.  However, I found it was easier to work with the tailgate down.  I unbolted the top, lifted it up a little, and had a buddy fold the tailgate down.

Note:  There is no support for the window, no frame, etc.  So Be sure to put something under it to support the window just in case.

I found that my rear window motor has been replaced before and someone had messed with the wires because there was some clipped wire and mis-matched color wires in the tailgate.

My test using a portable jumper battery was to run a wire to each side of the motor.  There are two wires and which side is the power wire determines if the window goes up or down.

Keep in mind there is extra wiring running to the key to control the motor going up and down.  I have to tackle that part next but don't assume its the motor without testing the switches and running current directly to the motor.

Transfer Case Replacement - Take 1

A buddy drove about 3 hours roundtrip to pickup a transfer case I found online at car-parts.com.  It was from an '89 but allegedly it fits an '88.  True but not true we found out.

Both are a BW1356 (you can find the 13-56 stamped on the case or on the metal tag if its still attached).  However, in '89 they changed the rear driveshaft flange (the part that connects the transfer case to the drive shaft).

As shown in the picture my '88 transfer case had a double cardan style (right) and the '89 had the newer flange.  They are not the same size shaft!  The newer style is slightly bigger so it will fit on either shaft but the double cardan style will not.  Don't try to force it on with a hammer/etc.

Another issue to be aware of is that the '89 transfer case came off a lifted Bronco so the arm for the manual shift was slightly longer so I had to take retain the old hardware in order to connect up the shifter based on my current ride height.

There are a few "fixes" for this.  The first would be to find a driveshaft from a later model Bronco and use that instead.  If you found one from another model (F-Series for example) you'd have to take it to have the driveshaft shortened.  The second solution and my approach is taking the vehicle to a shop that does driveshaft work and having them create a suitable adapter.

Other tips and useful information:

- Get some tape to tape the caps of the ball joints. Electrical tape works well.  If the caps fall off the needle bearings may fall out and if you lose one the bearing is no good.

- Be sure to disconnect all the electrical connections and speedo gear before removing the transfer case so you don't break them.

- There is a seal between the transmission and transfer case.  If this seal is old be prepared for more than the 2 quarts of fluid from the transfer case to drain out.

- Buy some gasket maker like RTV or find the gasket to go between the transmission and transfer case.

- There is a guide on the C6 transmission (possibly on others too) to guide the transfer case back into the right position.

Transfer Case Testing

Shortly after buying my Bronco I "tested" 4wd by seeing if the light would come on indicating when in 4 wheel low and high.  It ended up being a bad test because I found out half way up a steep incline at an off-road park that I had no 4wd!

I put the vehicle up on jack stands so I could inspect more thoroughly.  What I found is that with 4wd engaged and the vehicle in neutral as I hand spun the drive shaft nothing happened in the front of the transfer case.  I took the front shaft off and I could then see when I turned the drive shaft that the front output was turning but it would sometimes stop turning.

What this tells me is that there are likely teeth missing in the transfer case.  I drained transfer case to see if I could find anything but no signs of metal.  Through the drain you could see the chain moving as I turned the shaft.  So at some point someone likely drained and refilled the case most likely.

In summary, you should definitely verify visually that 4wd is working don't trust the lights.  The lights just tell you what position the transfer case is set to not if it works.

I've already found and ordered a salvaged transfer case.  I was able to find them online for about $250.  The reason for this is that I can cheaply swap out the transfer case and use that one until I have my current one rebuilt.  Otherwise my vehicle would be at a shop or sitting inoperable without the transfer case until its done which I didn't want to do.

I couldn't pin my preferred local transmission shop down on a price to rebuild the transfer case but I will be sure to make an entry later when I have that information.

"Free" Idle Stall / Surge Fix

Fixed the issue with the Bronco starting to stall and die in idle especially when the engine wasn't warmed up.  My Bronco is an '88 with EFI 351w.

Symptoms:  Engine would stall while in gear at idle.  Applying throttle would help.  Sometimes you had to apply gas when putting it in gear and it would start to die and then surge.  In park the RPM gauge would bobble about 100-200 rpm.

Solution: Removed the Idle Air Control and clean it.  The IAC is located on the driver's side follow the hose from the air box to the throttle body and its on the side.  It is held on by two bolts and has a single electrical connection.

When removed you can clean out the carbon deposits (black stuff) by using throttle body cleaner.  I would also use electric contact cleaner to clean out the electrical connection.  Spray the cleaner until the liquid  runs clear.  You might use a soft brush (like an old toothbrush) to really clean the spring off.

I re-installed and my idle issues were resolved.  Stay tuned for more maintenance things.  I'm going to be working on the fuel system, ignition system, and getting some of the gauges to start working again.

The Search - Part 5

I found my '88 online with only one picture and a two sentence description.  I contacted the seller to find out if it was a 351w but that was it.  So when I showed up to look at it I had no idea what I was in for.

The seller had another buyer lined up but since I was the first one there with cash-in-hand I won out.  I basically looked at the outside, listened to the seller, handed him cash, started the Bronco, took the title, took the keys, and left.

The reality was I paid $2,000 for it.  It ran and drove so it was worth $2,000.  Here's the list of issues some I knew about and some I discovered after driving it for 2 days.   That said... if I had to do over again knowing everything I do now... I still would have paid $2,000.  A Bronco that doesn't have rusted fenders, runs and drives well is worth $2,000 all day long.

Keep in mind that some of these things are not going to be important to you.  Likewise some are not important to me.  Nor will these items be the same issues you'll face per say.  I'm really making this list as a list of things for a person to watch for, be aware of, and give an idea of what owning a Bronco could entail for you.

Day 1 Issues:

- Exterior paint:  Owner spray painted to touch up where paint peeled.

- Rear window doesn't respond to switch

- Door panels rattle

- Passenger door doesn't lock

- Doors don't latch unless closed hard.  [Seems to be an 80s vehicle thing tho.]

- Battery, coolant, and oil gauge don't work or give false readings.

- Driver seat back will only lock in 1 position

- Shift position indicator is missing/doesn't work.  Not fatal but sometimes a little tricky.

Day 2 Issues:

- Stalls when engine isn't warmed up.

- More and more sluggish responding to acceleration.

- Sputters and dies when less than half a tank of fuel.   Add 1 gallon it started up.  Only took half a tank of gas at the gas station.

-  Blinker switch only stays in place when turning left.  Has to be held turning right.

- Transfer case doesn't engage front axle even though light say 4wd engaged.

- Rear view mirror fell off

I should note I found in my '88 its hard to get a car seat or adult in the back.  Kids can climb over the console but maybe impossible for older people with limited mobility.

I believe some of the running problems are related to either clogged fuel filter or failing pump.  I will post a specific update when that is addressed.

The Search - Part 3

As I mentioned I wanted a '92 - '96 because of the creature comforts but went with an '88.  You might want to know some about the thought process and why you might want one model year over the other.

I found the '88 had power windows and locks but not mirrors ('92+ do).  I've had manual everything on a vehicle before and I can tell you that you want the windows and locks more than the mirrors.

The '88 also had the EFI 351w which didn't change much if at all over the later years.

The TTB suspension exists on all the '80+ models so there is no benefit on this front of one year vs another. I'm not aware of any major changes to the system either tho I'm sure there were some minor improvements over the years.

Likewise I believe all the '80+ can do 33s without a lift.  So you don't have any models from that time forward that are friendlier in that respect.

As I mentioned in Part 2 the '92+ have crumple zones so it makes mounting components on the front a little tricky.  And they have air bags which make me a little nervous personally bouncing around on a trail since my Bronco is being used as an offroad rig.

Lastly, my '88 has the C6 which is from my understanding a better suited for offroad than an overdrive model.

So at the end of the day I didn't get power mirrors and should have an easier time mounting stuff to the frame (winch, tow hooks, etc) because I don't have crumple zone issues.  And I saved several grand based on the going price for the newer models vs the older model.

In Part 4 I will go over some things to lookout for and what issues I had day 1 with my rig.  Just to give you an idea of expectations.

The Search - Part 4

In my searching I found that Broncos fall into about 3 different price points and some common concerns/themes.

Prices

Here were the price points and what I found when looking.  This may not hold true for you based on your circumstances but just as an idea.

$0 - $1500 [late 70s-early 80s]:  Most seemed to be stock but beaten up and need something (motor,transmission,interior, or all).

$2000 - $4000 [mid 80s- early 90s]: Run but they need some type of work as mentioned above.

$5000-$6500 [last model years]: Good running condition with some restoration.

Again, this was based on what I saw in my search.  I saw some that were $9,000 - $10,000.  They looked good and owner clearly put a lot of parts on them but not sure if it really makes them worth it.

Common Issues

In general for the Bronco, these are some common issues to be on the watch for.  So things like "Does the 4wd system work?" isn't really Bronco specific but a good practice when buying any 4wd vehicle.

- Rust is probably the biggest issues with these Broncos typically in the fender area and in the tailgate because of the window integrated into the tailgate.

- Tailgates and rear windows frequently don't work.  Door locks may or may not work.

-  As mentioned in previous posts steering is an issue when components are older and/or a lift kit has been installed.

My Thoughts

I would look for as close to stock as I can so you know the vehicle hasn't been torn up.  Improper lifts will cause steering, alignment, and tire wear issues.  Not to mention hard on the vehicle.

A well priced and good condition Bronco will sell fast so have cash ready and be proactive.  I had a '94 get sold hours before I was going to buy it from a dealer.  Likewise, I bought my '88 about an hour before another buyer was going to show up to look.

In the last part of this series, Part 5, I'll talk about my '88  Bronco and give you an idea of what you get for your money.  This doesn't mean you'll have the same issues.  Its not to encourage spending more;spending more doesn't mean getting more.  Just to give an idea of some things to think about.

The Search - Part 2

My search started off for a late model (preferably a '94 - '96) model.  My thought was they would be in best condition, have the newest features, and I liked the Eddie Bauer leather interior.

I ended up with an '88 so I clearly didn't stick to that plan.  It is important to know that Broncos fall into 5 different groups and pros/cons of each.  This isn't an exhaustive list of differences just some key things.

1. 1966 - 1977:  This was basically built to compete with the Jeep CJ.  It was the first Ford compact SUV (think Bronco II vs an FSB [Full Size Bronco]).  I don't know a lot about these so I apologize but wanted to include it.  I never considered this model year because they tend to be rare and expensive.  For example right now a local one that needs restoration is listing for $7,500 and a fully restored one at $12,000.

2. 1978 - 1979:  The '78 was the first redesign and these models tend to be regarded as the best looking ones.  I tend to agree with that and every model since seems to take some visual cues from these models.  Of note these were the first years with the removal top and were based on the F-100.  They came with two V8 options a 351M (aka a Clevland not to be confused with the later 351w aka Winsor) or a 400M.  Rear axle was 9" with Dana 44 in the front as the standard.  These models also featured the rolling rear glass window/tailgate which all later Broncos have.  Two 4-speed manuals and the C6 (3-speed) automatic were the transmission options.  Lastly, the 1979 was the first year of the catalytic converter.  I saw a few of these around for a fair price but needed some cosmetic work.  I saw one for $1500 that allegedly ran but appeared to need a top, body work, interior work, etc.

3. 1980 -1986: The '80 was the second re-design coinciding with the 7th generation F-Series trucks.  These models and onward have the TTB suspension setup which is a hybrid solid axle/IFS setup.  Of note these model years offered a straight 6 optin (300), the 302 V8, and the 351 [M or W depending on the year].  Keep in mind around this time a lot of emissions things went into effect which you may want to address to improve power and performance.  Electronic Fuel Injection [EFI] came on the 302 in '85.  Transmission wise you still had 2 manual options and 3 different automatic options during this time.

4. 1987 - 1991:   In '87 there were body and drive train changes again due to F-Series changes.  By '88 all engine options (not just the 302) have EFI.  At this point you have 3 automatic and 1 manual option.  The 3-speed was the C6 and then two 4-speeds (overdrive).  Look at Wikipedia and you can see what the combinations are for the years.

5. 1992 - 1996: Again, '92 was a redesign based on F-Series changes.  These models have front crumple zones which is of note if you're wanting to mount things to the front.  You also get airbags, 4-wheel ABS, mass air, OBDII, etc.  Don't quote me but I believe in '94 they added the top/3rd tail light for safety and Torx bolts to keep the roof on.  I've seen suggestions of a mod to add a 3rd light to the spare tire mount when the top is off to stay "legal".  These models also were the first to have power mirrors available.  Engines were the straight 6, 302, or 351.  Two automatic transmissions and one 5-speed manual were options.  I don't know what the engine/transmission combinations were.

In Part 3 I will talk about why I made the selection I did, '88, and not the late models.

The Search - Part 1

I remember as a elementary school kid playing outside and admiring the next door neighbor's Bronco.  It looked cool and every time the owner went somewhere I felt like he was headed out on an amazing adventure.

In college a friend of mine bought a Bronco and I remember how much he loved driving it.  I rode in it many times and had a great admiration for the reliability and versatility.  And man it looks cool cruising around with the top off.

Finally as an adult I thought my moment arrived.  We were buying a bigger boat than our vehicles could tow and needed a bigger vehicle.  And needed something to make runs to the home improvement store.  Wasn't going to be a daily driver... and it got shutdown my spouse at the time.

I finally after over 25 years bought my first Bronco today, an '88 with a 351w.

I decided to make this blog because I'm sure there are many people out there like myself scouring the internet for the same information that I either had to piece together or find out the hard way.

I'll try to keep these posts brief for easy reading / searching which may mean breaking them into parts.

So this concludes Part 1 of The Search.  Part 2 will discuss my buying process.