I purchased the entire assembly (pump, fuel gauge, etc) for about $99 + tax. My tank was metal and it had a metal retaining ring that hold the pump in place.
First you have to remove the feed and return fuel line and sender. The sender simply unplugs. My feed line had a plastic clip that easily came off. The return line was hose clamped on. Fuel will come out of these fittings so keep them propped up. Some coat hanger is handy to build a simple bracket. You might want to use some tape to mark the lines just in case but the one with the hose clamp was my return line so that is how I remembered which is which.
To prevent sparks around fuel it is best to use something like a brass punch to knock the ring loose. I used a pry bar that I wrapped with cloth and electrical tape as a makeshift solution. You simply put your "punch" against one of the 3 tabs and using a hammer knock the ring counter clockwise.
The pump assembly lifts out but be careful; the barrel on my old pump fell off during removal. It takes some maneuvering but the whole assembly will come out.
Then replace the unit. Secure the pump using retaining ring, reconnect the lines, and you're done.
Note: The access panel was great because my return line was leaking which I easily fixed by opening the access hatch. If you don't have a hatch you might want to test connections for leaks prior to putting everything back together.
UPDATE 3/28/14: There are two notches on the bottom of the tank low pressure pump which match up to two holes on the lip of the fuel tank. You need to make sure the pump is lined up and those notches are in place. It may mean the pump points slightly off to one side. I did not have the notches lined up initially and it caused fuel to splash out when the tank was full even though the pump appeared to be locked properly in place. Also make sure the tank o-ring/seal is lined up to provide a proper seal.
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