Changed the oil on Friday night. I used some Quaker State Defy 5w-30. That oil has about 1000ppm of ZDDP which you need in engines running flat tappet cams like the '88 351W.
The zinc acts as a sacrificial coating and keeps parts from being worn down. You can also find ZDDP additives but the price was right on that oil. Most newer oils don't have these additives as the switch was made to roller cams and better technology exists to make sure metal surfaces don't rub.
I really like changing the oil on the 351w vs other engines. The oil plug is on the bottom of the pan and the filter attaches to the side of the block at an angle so you don't spill oil everywhere when removing the filter because it mostly drains out! With 31s on it I have more than enough room to get under and work without needing to lift the vehicle which is also nice.
I used a strap wrench to remove the filter as its a little tricky to get in there and get good leverage on it.
I'm not sure what oil was in there or the condition of it. I did notice that my oil pressure gauge doesn't bounce around often at idle when the engine is warm like it was. So maybe the oil was really old and a little sludgy.
Sunday, March 30, 2014
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Bearing Replacement
So the list I included in the previous post was correct but there were two additional bearings. They are in the spindle and relatively small. I want to say the part # was B2110 but don't quote me on that.
I also went and bough some new seals for the spindle seals. One presses in on the back of the spindle and the other traps grease on the front of the spindle.
You'll need a few tools if you don't have them to replace the bearings.
1. Bearing puller to remove the smaller bearings and races
2. Race driver to hammer in new pressed seals
3. Spindle socket. I found the Lisle tool to be the best. The OEM Tools one had 4 prongs that stick out and didn't match.
I also did ball joints so I needed the ball joint tool (looks like a giant clamp).
There are a lot of parts in the automatic hub and I'll have to post pictures at some point or find a link because it is not hard but a little involved to get everything back in order the right way.
I also went and bough some new seals for the spindle seals. One presses in on the back of the spindle and the other traps grease on the front of the spindle.
You'll need a few tools if you don't have them to replace the bearings.
1. Bearing puller to remove the smaller bearings and races
2. Race driver to hammer in new pressed seals
3. Spindle socket. I found the Lisle tool to be the best. The OEM Tools one had 4 prongs that stick out and didn't match.
I also did ball joints so I needed the ball joint tool (looks like a giant clamp).
There are a lot of parts in the automatic hub and I'll have to post pictures at some point or find a link because it is not hard but a little involved to get everything back in order the right way.
Monday, March 10, 2014
Off Road Notes from 3/9/14
I took the Bronco out on Sunday to 4-wheel it a little to see how it would do with a working transfer case. It was a night and day difference! I hit the same 3 trails where my Bronco got stuck without a working transfer case and needed a buddy to help pull me out of a few spots... this time no issues!
Cleaning the IAC fixed the stalling issue which was also appreciated when I was at stops. The oil gauge starts to fluctuate at idle from side-to-side when the engine is warm so I will be changing out the sending unit to see if that is the issue. If the problem persists it will be time to drop the oil pan and change the pump. The key thing is the engine runs fine which seems to indicate a sensor vs a real oil pressure issue.
The main weakness I found with the Bronco this time out was with the 31x10.5 tires. My buddy has 33's on his Jeep and he had no trouble in a few places where my differential would get caught. The extra clearance from bigger tires would help with that.
There was also a period of time with some really annoying squealing which appears to be wheel bearing related. Didn't matter 2wd vs 4wd. Eventually the squeaky went away so I suspect the bearing worked itself back into place. The local part store chain here sold me all the bearing parts I needed for $40 plus tax so that is cheap insurance and a little bit of work to address that concern. I suspect if 1 bearing need replacement the others are not far behind. Allegedly (will confirm in a future post) there is an inner and outer bearing on each side of the front axle and one bearing for each side in the back. IE you'll need 2 bearings a side (4 total) for the front and two for the back. Also note they're not the same. For me the fronts are A35 and A37. The rears are #6408. Check for your application but this is for a '88 Bronco with stock axles.
I believe in the '91+ models they may have some extra parts from what I found searching around online.
Lastly, I also decided to buy some new ball joints to address the sloppy steering.
I'm hoping to complete the work this weekend and will also be adding a winch. I also have a few other projects in the pipeline. Always work to be done on older vehicles!
Sunday, March 9, 2014
Low Pressure Fuel Pump Installed
I bought a low pressure fuel pump from O'Reilly on Saturday and it solved the problem of the Bronco dying around half a tank.
I purchased the entire assembly (pump, fuel gauge, etc) for about $99 + tax. My tank was metal and it had a metal retaining ring that hold the pump in place.
First you have to remove the feed and return fuel line and sender. The sender simply unplugs. My feed line had a plastic clip that easily came off. The return line was hose clamped on. Fuel will come out of these fittings so keep them propped up. Some coat hanger is handy to build a simple bracket. You might want to use some tape to mark the lines just in case but the one with the hose clamp was my return line so that is how I remembered which is which.
To prevent sparks around fuel it is best to use something like a brass punch to knock the ring loose. I used a pry bar that I wrapped with cloth and electrical tape as a makeshift solution. You simply put your "punch" against one of the 3 tabs and using a hammer knock the ring counter clockwise.
The pump assembly lifts out but be careful; the barrel on my old pump fell off during removal. It takes some maneuvering but the whole assembly will come out.
Then replace the unit. Secure the pump using retaining ring, reconnect the lines, and you're done.
Note: The access panel was great because my return line was leaking which I easily fixed by opening the access hatch. If you don't have a hatch you might want to test connections for leaks prior to putting everything back together.
I purchased the entire assembly (pump, fuel gauge, etc) for about $99 + tax. My tank was metal and it had a metal retaining ring that hold the pump in place.
First you have to remove the feed and return fuel line and sender. The sender simply unplugs. My feed line had a plastic clip that easily came off. The return line was hose clamped on. Fuel will come out of these fittings so keep them propped up. Some coat hanger is handy to build a simple bracket. You might want to use some tape to mark the lines just in case but the one with the hose clamp was my return line so that is how I remembered which is which.
To prevent sparks around fuel it is best to use something like a brass punch to knock the ring loose. I used a pry bar that I wrapped with cloth and electrical tape as a makeshift solution. You simply put your "punch" against one of the 3 tabs and using a hammer knock the ring counter clockwise.
The pump assembly lifts out but be careful; the barrel on my old pump fell off during removal. It takes some maneuvering but the whole assembly will come out.
Then replace the unit. Secure the pump using retaining ring, reconnect the lines, and you're done.
Note: The access panel was great because my return line was leaking which I easily fixed by opening the access hatch. If you don't have a hatch you might want to test connections for leaks prior to putting everything back together.
UPDATE 3/28/14: There are two notches on the bottom of the tank low pressure pump which match up to two holes on the lip of the fuel tank. You need to make sure the pump is lined up and those notches are in place. It may mean the pump points slightly off to one side. I did not have the notches lined up initially and it caused fuel to splash out when the tank was full even though the pump appeared to be locked properly in place. Also make sure the tank o-ring/seal is lined up to provide a proper seal.
Thursday, March 6, 2014
How To Flat Tow a Bronco
Just a quick post on flat towing. This really only works well for short distance towing since there will be dash lights on/etc. Towing on a trailer would be better.
Setup:
You will need a tow bar, the appropriate bracket hardware, and some type of towing light setup. I used a 5,000lb tow bar and magnetic lights. The tow bar brackets were attached to the bumper.
Procedure:
1. Attach Bronco to tow vehicle via tow bar.
2. You will put the transfer case in neutral. I have a manual shift so I did this by putting the transmission in neutral and shifting. You'll know you are in neutral when there are no drive lights on the dash and in drive on the transmission you don't go anywhere.
3. Turn the Bronco to the accessory position. The transmission can be in park or neutral; doesn't matter since its disconnected at this point from the transfer case.
4. You need the accessory position on so the steering wheel won't lock. However, you'll likely notice that the fuel pump is still running. Go under the Bronco and pull the power for the fuel pump. It is a red wire at the front (pointing towards the engine). This is optional but I feel like it is better for the pump and consumes less power (less battery drain). Also be sure to turn off radio and other accessories. You'll still have 2 dash lights illuminated as you tow.
5. Ensure turn signal lights are connected and working properly. Make sure safety chain is connected properly.
Setup:
You will need a tow bar, the appropriate bracket hardware, and some type of towing light setup. I used a 5,000lb tow bar and magnetic lights. The tow bar brackets were attached to the bumper.
Procedure:
1. Attach Bronco to tow vehicle via tow bar.
2. You will put the transfer case in neutral. I have a manual shift so I did this by putting the transmission in neutral and shifting. You'll know you are in neutral when there are no drive lights on the dash and in drive on the transmission you don't go anywhere.
3. Turn the Bronco to the accessory position. The transmission can be in park or neutral; doesn't matter since its disconnected at this point from the transfer case.
4. You need the accessory position on so the steering wheel won't lock. However, you'll likely notice that the fuel pump is still running. Go under the Bronco and pull the power for the fuel pump. It is a red wire at the front (pointing towards the engine). This is optional but I feel like it is better for the pump and consumes less power (less battery drain). Also be sure to turn off radio and other accessories. You'll still have 2 dash lights illuminated as you tow.
5. Ensure turn signal lights are connected and working properly. Make sure safety chain is connected properly.
Wednesday, March 5, 2014
Transfer Case Repair -- Done
So the transfer case debacle is done and my Bronco is up and running again.
The main lessons learned was the '89 BW1356 isn't 100% compatible with '88 due to flange change and rear output shaft diameter change.
Parts costs were:
1. Salvaged '89 BW1356: $266
2. Driveshaft modification: $300
3. Replacement transfer case seal (one looked bad): $25
4. ATF fluid (2 quarts for transfer case): $13
Total: $604.
For the cost it might have been cheaper to rebuild the old case or not; I'll do a post on that eventually. But I do have a backup transfer case so that is a plus.
The main lessons learned was the '89 BW1356 isn't 100% compatible with '88 due to flange change and rear output shaft diameter change.
Parts costs were:
1. Salvaged '89 BW1356: $266
2. Driveshaft modification: $300
3. Replacement transfer case seal (one looked bad): $25
4. ATF fluid (2 quarts for transfer case): $13
Total: $604.
For the cost it might have been cheaper to rebuild the old case or not; I'll do a post on that eventually. But I do have a backup transfer case so that is a plus.
Monday, March 3, 2014
Low Pressure Fuel Pump Access Hatch
As I mentioned in an earlier article my '88 dies when the tanks is about half full. If you top it off with some additional gas it starts up and runs fine.
From my research it appears this specific issue is due to the low pressure fuel pump inlet getting clogged. As you can imagine a 25+ year old vehicle's fuel tank probably has some gunk in it.
Your first option is to drop the fuel tank but for my Bronco which I take 4-wheeling mostly I wanted a quick way to fix a potential problem should it occur.
My solution was to drill an access hole above the fuel tank inside the cab.
From my research it appears this specific issue is due to the low pressure fuel pump inlet getting clogged. As you can imagine a 25+ year old vehicle's fuel tank probably has some gunk in it.
Your first option is to drop the fuel tank but for my Bronco which I take 4-wheeling mostly I wanted a quick way to fix a potential problem should it occur.
My solution was to drill an access hole above the fuel tank inside the cab.
As you can see from the picture above I added some hinges that were riveted in to easily open and close the hatch. I'm going to add some weather stripping and a latch to help keep it closed.
Note: You DON'T want to puncture the fuel tank so you need to be extremely careful. I used a jig saw on blocks of wood to ensure it wouldn't pierce the tank or spark. Don't use an angle grinder because it will throw sparks.
Step 1: Remove the Phillips screws holding the metal trim piece at back of the cargo area.
Step 2: Carpet will pull up. I had some pieces laying under there that were old nasty wood pieces to help level the back and I threw them away.
Step 3: Measure for the tank. I recommend going under the body and using either a long drill bit or some type of puncture tool to mark the boundaries of your hole. Then gently drill holes so you can use the jig saw. Remember: Lift the jig saw so it won't go all the want down and hit the top of the tank. Also make sure your cutting path doesn't cut any fuel lines or wires.
Step 4: Take a grinding wheel or something to smooth the edges of the access panel. Apply weather stripping or other material to make form a good seal. Consider hinges and a latch mechanism to keep the hatch closed and from rattling.
Step 5: Replace carpet and install trim piece.
There is a post at Full Size Bronco someone else did that is a similar hatch and has some measurements if you want to use them versus your own: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2238881
Note: Fuel pump screws off and you'll want to use a shop vac or something to clean the area so you don't contaminate the fuel tank.
Saturday, March 1, 2014
Rear Window Diagnostics
Allegedly the driveshaft shop was going to work on getting me a working driveshaft today but TBD since most of the Dallas metroplex is closed due to yesterday's sleet and overnight freezing temperatures.
I did have the opportunity over the weekend when it was 80 (gotta love Texas weather) to do some other work on the Bronco.
One issue was the rear window wouldn't roll up or down from the switch. Initially, I checked the fuse but all the power stuff (power windows, power locks, rear window) are on the same fuse. On the '88 there is a diagram on the panel when you remove the fuses that will tell you what is what and which fuse controls which functions. It will be pretty obvious when a fuse goes because you will lose a lot of functionality at once it seems.
Anyhow, on the window. I removed the handful of screws keeping the back panel on and was able to access the motor. However, I found it was easier to work with the tailgate down. I unbolted the top, lifted it up a little, and had a buddy fold the tailgate down.
Note: There is no support for the window, no frame, etc. So Be sure to put something under it to support the window just in case.
I found that my rear window motor has been replaced before and someone had messed with the wires because there was some clipped wire and mis-matched color wires in the tailgate.
My test using a portable jumper battery was to run a wire to each side of the motor. There are two wires and which side is the power wire determines if the window goes up or down.
Keep in mind there is extra wiring running to the key to control the motor going up and down. I have to tackle that part next but don't assume its the motor without testing the switches and running current directly to the motor.
I did have the opportunity over the weekend when it was 80 (gotta love Texas weather) to do some other work on the Bronco.
One issue was the rear window wouldn't roll up or down from the switch. Initially, I checked the fuse but all the power stuff (power windows, power locks, rear window) are on the same fuse. On the '88 there is a diagram on the panel when you remove the fuses that will tell you what is what and which fuse controls which functions. It will be pretty obvious when a fuse goes because you will lose a lot of functionality at once it seems.
Anyhow, on the window. I removed the handful of screws keeping the back panel on and was able to access the motor. However, I found it was easier to work with the tailgate down. I unbolted the top, lifted it up a little, and had a buddy fold the tailgate down.
Note: There is no support for the window, no frame, etc. So Be sure to put something under it to support the window just in case.
I found that my rear window motor has been replaced before and someone had messed with the wires because there was some clipped wire and mis-matched color wires in the tailgate.
My test using a portable jumper battery was to run a wire to each side of the motor. There are two wires and which side is the power wire determines if the window goes up or down.
Keep in mind there is extra wiring running to the key to control the motor going up and down. I have to tackle that part next but don't assume its the motor without testing the switches and running current directly to the motor.
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