Transfer Case Replacement - Take 1

A buddy drove about 3 hours roundtrip to pickup a transfer case I found online at car-parts.com.  It was from an '89 but allegedly it fits an '88.  True but not true we found out.

Both are a BW1356 (you can find the 13-56 stamped on the case or on the metal tag if its still attached).  However, in '89 they changed the rear driveshaft flange (the part that connects the transfer case to the drive shaft).

As shown in the picture my '88 transfer case had a double cardan style (right) and the '89 had the newer flange.  They are not the same size shaft!  The newer style is slightly bigger so it will fit on either shaft but the double cardan style will not.  Don't try to force it on with a hammer/etc.

Another issue to be aware of is that the '89 transfer case came off a lifted Bronco so the arm for the manual shift was slightly longer so I had to take retain the old hardware in order to connect up the shifter based on my current ride height.

There are a few "fixes" for this.  The first would be to find a driveshaft from a later model Bronco and use that instead.  If you found one from another model (F-Series for example) you'd have to take it to have the driveshaft shortened.  The second solution and my approach is taking the vehicle to a shop that does driveshaft work and having them create a suitable adapter.

Other tips and useful information:

- Get some tape to tape the caps of the ball joints. Electrical tape works well.  If the caps fall off the needle bearings may fall out and if you lose one the bearing is no good.

- Be sure to disconnect all the electrical connections and speedo gear before removing the transfer case so you don't break them.

- There is a seal between the transmission and transfer case.  If this seal is old be prepared for more than the 2 quarts of fluid from the transfer case to drain out.

- Buy some gasket maker like RTV or find the gasket to go between the transmission and transfer case.

- There is a guide on the C6 transmission (possibly on others too) to guide the transfer case back into the right position.

Transfer Case Testing

Shortly after buying my Bronco I "tested" 4wd by seeing if the light would come on indicating when in 4 wheel low and high.  It ended up being a bad test because I found out half way up a steep incline at an off-road park that I had no 4wd!

I put the vehicle up on jack stands so I could inspect more thoroughly.  What I found is that with 4wd engaged and the vehicle in neutral as I hand spun the drive shaft nothing happened in the front of the transfer case.  I took the front shaft off and I could then see when I turned the drive shaft that the front output was turning but it would sometimes stop turning.

What this tells me is that there are likely teeth missing in the transfer case.  I drained transfer case to see if I could find anything but no signs of metal.  Through the drain you could see the chain moving as I turned the shaft.  So at some point someone likely drained and refilled the case most likely.

In summary, you should definitely verify visually that 4wd is working don't trust the lights.  The lights just tell you what position the transfer case is set to not if it works.

I've already found and ordered a salvaged transfer case.  I was able to find them online for about $250.  The reason for this is that I can cheaply swap out the transfer case and use that one until I have my current one rebuilt.  Otherwise my vehicle would be at a shop or sitting inoperable without the transfer case until its done which I didn't want to do.

I couldn't pin my preferred local transmission shop down on a price to rebuild the transfer case but I will be sure to make an entry later when I have that information.

"Free" Idle Stall / Surge Fix

Fixed the issue with the Bronco starting to stall and die in idle especially when the engine wasn't warmed up.  My Bronco is an '88 with EFI 351w.

Symptoms:  Engine would stall while in gear at idle.  Applying throttle would help.  Sometimes you had to apply gas when putting it in gear and it would start to die and then surge.  In park the RPM gauge would bobble about 100-200 rpm.

Solution: Removed the Idle Air Control and clean it.  The IAC is located on the driver's side follow the hose from the air box to the throttle body and its on the side.  It is held on by two bolts and has a single electrical connection.

When removed you can clean out the carbon deposits (black stuff) by using throttle body cleaner.  I would also use electric contact cleaner to clean out the electrical connection.  Spray the cleaner until the liquid  runs clear.  You might use a soft brush (like an old toothbrush) to really clean the spring off.

I re-installed and my idle issues were resolved.  Stay tuned for more maintenance things.  I'm going to be working on the fuel system, ignition system, and getting some of the gauges to start working again.

The Search - Part 5

I found my '88 online with only one picture and a two sentence description.  I contacted the seller to find out if it was a 351w but that was it.  So when I showed up to look at it I had no idea what I was in for.

The seller had another buyer lined up but since I was the first one there with cash-in-hand I won out.  I basically looked at the outside, listened to the seller, handed him cash, started the Bronco, took the title, took the keys, and left.

The reality was I paid $2,000 for it.  It ran and drove so it was worth $2,000.  Here's the list of issues some I knew about and some I discovered after driving it for 2 days.   That said... if I had to do over again knowing everything I do now... I still would have paid $2,000.  A Bronco that doesn't have rusted fenders, runs and drives well is worth $2,000 all day long.

Keep in mind that some of these things are not going to be important to you.  Likewise some are not important to me.  Nor will these items be the same issues you'll face per say.  I'm really making this list as a list of things for a person to watch for, be aware of, and give an idea of what owning a Bronco could entail for you.

Day 1 Issues:

- Exterior paint:  Owner spray painted to touch up where paint peeled.

- Rear window doesn't respond to switch

- Door panels rattle

- Passenger door doesn't lock

- Doors don't latch unless closed hard.  [Seems to be an 80s vehicle thing tho.]

- Battery, coolant, and oil gauge don't work or give false readings.

- Driver seat back will only lock in 1 position

- Shift position indicator is missing/doesn't work.  Not fatal but sometimes a little tricky.

Day 2 Issues:

- Stalls when engine isn't warmed up.

- More and more sluggish responding to acceleration.

- Sputters and dies when less than half a tank of fuel.   Add 1 gallon it started up.  Only took half a tank of gas at the gas station.

-  Blinker switch only stays in place when turning left.  Has to be held turning right.

- Transfer case doesn't engage front axle even though light say 4wd engaged.

- Rear view mirror fell off

I should note I found in my '88 its hard to get a car seat or adult in the back.  Kids can climb over the console but maybe impossible for older people with limited mobility.

I believe some of the running problems are related to either clogged fuel filter or failing pump.  I will post a specific update when that is addressed.

The Search - Part 3

As I mentioned I wanted a '92 - '96 because of the creature comforts but went with an '88.  You might want to know some about the thought process and why you might want one model year over the other.

I found the '88 had power windows and locks but not mirrors ('92+ do).  I've had manual everything on a vehicle before and I can tell you that you want the windows and locks more than the mirrors.

The '88 also had the EFI 351w which didn't change much if at all over the later years.

The TTB suspension exists on all the '80+ models so there is no benefit on this front of one year vs another. I'm not aware of any major changes to the system either tho I'm sure there were some minor improvements over the years.

Likewise I believe all the '80+ can do 33s without a lift.  So you don't have any models from that time forward that are friendlier in that respect.

As I mentioned in Part 2 the '92+ have crumple zones so it makes mounting components on the front a little tricky.  And they have air bags which make me a little nervous personally bouncing around on a trail since my Bronco is being used as an offroad rig.

Lastly, my '88 has the C6 which is from my understanding a better suited for offroad than an overdrive model.

So at the end of the day I didn't get power mirrors and should have an easier time mounting stuff to the frame (winch, tow hooks, etc) because I don't have crumple zone issues.  And I saved several grand based on the going price for the newer models vs the older model.

In Part 4 I will go over some things to lookout for and what issues I had day 1 with my rig.  Just to give you an idea of expectations.

The Search - Part 4

In my searching I found that Broncos fall into about 3 different price points and some common concerns/themes.

Prices

Here were the price points and what I found when looking.  This may not hold true for you based on your circumstances but just as an idea.

$0 - $1500 [late 70s-early 80s]:  Most seemed to be stock but beaten up and need something (motor,transmission,interior, or all).

$2000 - $4000 [mid 80s- early 90s]: Run but they need some type of work as mentioned above.

$5000-$6500 [last model years]: Good running condition with some restoration.

Again, this was based on what I saw in my search.  I saw some that were $9,000 - $10,000.  They looked good and owner clearly put a lot of parts on them but not sure if it really makes them worth it.

Common Issues

In general for the Bronco, these are some common issues to be on the watch for.  So things like "Does the 4wd system work?" isn't really Bronco specific but a good practice when buying any 4wd vehicle.

- Rust is probably the biggest issues with these Broncos typically in the fender area and in the tailgate because of the window integrated into the tailgate.

- Tailgates and rear windows frequently don't work.  Door locks may or may not work.

-  As mentioned in previous posts steering is an issue when components are older and/or a lift kit has been installed.

My Thoughts

I would look for as close to stock as I can so you know the vehicle hasn't been torn up.  Improper lifts will cause steering, alignment, and tire wear issues.  Not to mention hard on the vehicle.

A well priced and good condition Bronco will sell fast so have cash ready and be proactive.  I had a '94 get sold hours before I was going to buy it from a dealer.  Likewise, I bought my '88 about an hour before another buyer was going to show up to look.

In the last part of this series, Part 5, I'll talk about my '88  Bronco and give you an idea of what you get for your money.  This doesn't mean you'll have the same issues.  Its not to encourage spending more;spending more doesn't mean getting more.  Just to give an idea of some things to think about.

The Search - Part 2

My search started off for a late model (preferably a '94 - '96) model.  My thought was they would be in best condition, have the newest features, and I liked the Eddie Bauer leather interior.

I ended up with an '88 so I clearly didn't stick to that plan.  It is important to know that Broncos fall into 5 different groups and pros/cons of each.  This isn't an exhaustive list of differences just some key things.

1. 1966 - 1977:  This was basically built to compete with the Jeep CJ.  It was the first Ford compact SUV (think Bronco II vs an FSB [Full Size Bronco]).  I don't know a lot about these so I apologize but wanted to include it.  I never considered this model year because they tend to be rare and expensive.  For example right now a local one that needs restoration is listing for $7,500 and a fully restored one at $12,000.

2. 1978 - 1979:  The '78 was the first redesign and these models tend to be regarded as the best looking ones.  I tend to agree with that and every model since seems to take some visual cues from these models.  Of note these were the first years with the removal top and were based on the F-100.  They came with two V8 options a 351M (aka a Clevland not to be confused with the later 351w aka Winsor) or a 400M.  Rear axle was 9" with Dana 44 in the front as the standard.  These models also featured the rolling rear glass window/tailgate which all later Broncos have.  Two 4-speed manuals and the C6 (3-speed) automatic were the transmission options.  Lastly, the 1979 was the first year of the catalytic converter.  I saw a few of these around for a fair price but needed some cosmetic work.  I saw one for $1500 that allegedly ran but appeared to need a top, body work, interior work, etc.

3. 1980 -1986: The '80 was the second re-design coinciding with the 7th generation F-Series trucks.  These models and onward have the TTB suspension setup which is a hybrid solid axle/IFS setup.  Of note these model years offered a straight 6 optin (300), the 302 V8, and the 351 [M or W depending on the year].  Keep in mind around this time a lot of emissions things went into effect which you may want to address to improve power and performance.  Electronic Fuel Injection [EFI] came on the 302 in '85.  Transmission wise you still had 2 manual options and 3 different automatic options during this time.

4. 1987 - 1991:   In '87 there were body and drive train changes again due to F-Series changes.  By '88 all engine options (not just the 302) have EFI.  At this point you have 3 automatic and 1 manual option.  The 3-speed was the C6 and then two 4-speeds (overdrive).  Look at Wikipedia and you can see what the combinations are for the years.

5. 1992 - 1996: Again, '92 was a redesign based on F-Series changes.  These models have front crumple zones which is of note if you're wanting to mount things to the front.  You also get airbags, 4-wheel ABS, mass air, OBDII, etc.  Don't quote me but I believe in '94 they added the top/3rd tail light for safety and Torx bolts to keep the roof on.  I've seen suggestions of a mod to add a 3rd light to the spare tire mount when the top is off to stay "legal".  These models also were the first to have power mirrors available.  Engines were the straight 6, 302, or 351.  Two automatic transmissions and one 5-speed manual were options.  I don't know what the engine/transmission combinations were.

In Part 3 I will talk about why I made the selection I did, '88, and not the late models.

The Search - Part 1

I remember as a elementary school kid playing outside and admiring the next door neighbor's Bronco.  It looked cool and every time the owner went somewhere I felt like he was headed out on an amazing adventure.

In college a friend of mine bought a Bronco and I remember how much he loved driving it.  I rode in it many times and had a great admiration for the reliability and versatility.  And man it looks cool cruising around with the top off.

Finally as an adult I thought my moment arrived.  We were buying a bigger boat than our vehicles could tow and needed a bigger vehicle.  And needed something to make runs to the home improvement store.  Wasn't going to be a daily driver... and it got shutdown my spouse at the time.

I finally after over 25 years bought my first Bronco today, an '88 with a 351w.

I decided to make this blog because I'm sure there are many people out there like myself scouring the internet for the same information that I either had to piece together or find out the hard way.

I'll try to keep these posts brief for easy reading / searching which may mean breaking them into parts.

So this concludes Part 1 of The Search.  Part 2 will discuss my buying process.