As mentioned in the last post a tire blew out. I had a tube put into another one and swapped that on. I then proceeded to destroy that tire and another tire the next day on a wheeling outing.
I got almost a year out of those five 33s that I spent $125 on so no complaints. I went ahead and replaced all the tires with new 35" Goodyear Kevlar MT/Rs. They fit the '88 for the most part with some rubbing on tight corners.
I went ahead since I haven't done the planned lift and cut all 4 fenders. I cut quite a bit so it was a bit of a chore but it looks decent for what it is.
Fuel tank was replaced so no leaks there now!
Next step is some custom made rock sliders and maybe a bumper upgrade.
Pics to come.
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Saturday, January 24, 2015
Down a Tire!
Well, one of my tires gave out today on the highway. It wasn't a blow out but the tread separated. I was able to limp along for about 5 miles to get where I was going and then I mounted a spare with a tube in it.
I'll be interested to see how the tube holds up until my 35" tires arrive.
I'll be interested to see how the tube holds up until my 35" tires arrive.
Friday, January 16, 2015
All Terrain vs Mud Tire -- Big Difference?
Upon purchase, my Bronco had the 235/75r15 All Terrain (AT) tires on it. I drove it and wheeled it with the tires for about 3 months before switching to some used 33x12.5r15 Hancook Mud Tires (MR) a friend offered me at a great price.
With a still stock Bronco my experience was the MT seemed to perform better on the same trails in similar conditions than the AT. In part the extra width helped to provide more surface area and I think the lugs in some cases helped provide the bite the tire needed. With open differentials getting traction is important because both wheels get the same force applied. That means a tire up in the air or that has no traction in the mud is going to render the other tire (regardless of how much traction it has) useless because it won't get
On road, hands down the all terrains rode a little smoother and were less noisy. On the mud tires the lugs on the side make the car "bounce" and increase the road noise. Both are radials as well; some mud tires are bias ply and ride rough due because they're difficult to balance.
Unfortunately, there isn't really a best of both worlds scenario here so you have to pick one. I picked the mud tires.
I didn't think about it at the time but I recently got to experience first hand how these two tires act the same conditions. And yes, my perceptions were reality; mud tires grip better.
One of my 33s had some separated tread and wouldn't hold air anymore and I was going wheeling the next day. I found a quick KM2 spare 33 but it was 10.5 and had very little tread left. The all terrain also ended up on the front with a mud. Keep in mind the AT has more tread depth and the mud tire i
As I've mentioned on other posts I have front and rear Aussie Lockers so when the front drive shaft is engaged the front tires will both get torque regardless of one wheel losing traction.
The results of this were quite interesting. Throughout the day I encountered many situations where the vehicle would pull to the side where the MT was. On some slippery/muddy rocks I was pulled to that side despite trying to steer towards the AT. Ultimately, I had to ride it out until the AT got traction again and then I was able to turn. However this effect went away on gravel and other conditions where both tires had good traction.
Once I realized what was happening I knew that the MT really does grip better in low traction conditions compared to the AT. Then I got a wild idea to see what happens when I hammered it through a thick patch of mud. Each run I found once the AT lost traction despite steering straight the Bronco would turn to the AT side and slide sideways through the mud.
As a control I observed a CJ5 with 33s and dual lockers. While sometimes the vehicle would turn one way or another it still tracked mostly straight.
So there you have it; for what its worth. My observation was in low traction instances the 33x12.5 MT gripped better than the 235/75 AT.
With a still stock Bronco my experience was the MT seemed to perform better on the same trails in similar conditions than the AT. In part the extra width helped to provide more surface area and I think the lugs in some cases helped provide the bite the tire needed. With open differentials getting traction is important because both wheels get the same force applied. That means a tire up in the air or that has no traction in the mud is going to render the other tire (regardless of how much traction it has) useless because it won't get
On road, hands down the all terrains rode a little smoother and were less noisy. On the mud tires the lugs on the side make the car "bounce" and increase the road noise. Both are radials as well; some mud tires are bias ply and ride rough due because they're difficult to balance.
Unfortunately, there isn't really a best of both worlds scenario here so you have to pick one. I picked the mud tires.
I didn't think about it at the time but I recently got to experience first hand how these two tires act the same conditions. And yes, my perceptions were reality; mud tires grip better.
One of my 33s had some separated tread and wouldn't hold air anymore and I was going wheeling the next day. I found a quick KM2 spare 33 but it was 10.5 and had very little tread left. The all terrain also ended up on the front with a mud. Keep in mind the AT has more tread depth and the mud tire i
As I've mentioned on other posts I have front and rear Aussie Lockers so when the front drive shaft is engaged the front tires will both get torque regardless of one wheel losing traction.
The results of this were quite interesting. Throughout the day I encountered many situations where the vehicle would pull to the side where the MT was. On some slippery/muddy rocks I was pulled to that side despite trying to steer towards the AT. Ultimately, I had to ride it out until the AT got traction again and then I was able to turn. However this effect went away on gravel and other conditions where both tires had good traction.
Once I realized what was happening I knew that the MT really does grip better in low traction conditions compared to the AT. Then I got a wild idea to see what happens when I hammered it through a thick patch of mud. Each run I found once the AT lost traction despite steering straight the Bronco would turn to the AT side and slide sideways through the mud.
As a control I observed a CJ5 with 33s and dual lockers. While sometimes the vehicle would turn one way or another it still tracked mostly straight.
So there you have it; for what its worth. My observation was in low traction instances the 33x12.5 MT gripped better than the 235/75 AT.
Monday, January 12, 2015
Bronco 1 Year Ownership Cost
Overview & Considerations
I've had the Bronco almost a year now so I tallied up all the expenses on it to date. I wanted to do this to provide some insight to potential Bronco owners or even those looking into the costs of buying/owning an older vehicle.
Some things to keep in mind that were factors in the numbers being lower or higher:
1. Completeness - I tried to include all parts associated with a repair/upgrade. So gaskets, seals, and fluids required. Even things like wiper blades and wiper fluid.
2. Tools Excluded - I excluded the cost of any tools you would need to complete these jobs. However, this could be a huge cost consideration depending on your individual situation. I do provide an estimate for this at the end of this post.
3. "Around the Garage" Materials Excluded - I've excluded previously purchased materials that I already had in the garage. Typically items you have on hand because they are general purpose or from previous projects. This would include things like grease, towels/rags, and liquid thread locker.
4. Part Prices - Prices are pre-tax price or the current retail price at a big box auto parts store if I didn't have a receipt. Obviously if you bargain shop or have access to lower prices this could alter your numbers compared to mine.
5. No Labor Cost - I did all the work myself or with friends so there was no labor cost for a repair shop. Like tools, this would be a huge cost increase.
6. Variable Costs Excluded - I've excluded variable costs such as tax, insurance, fuel costs, and any inspection/registration fees. I do provide an estimate for these costs at the end of the post.
7. Representative - While not all old vehicles will have some of these issues I think its representative of what you can expect in terms of the types of issues you might run across.
8. Categories - I broke out the off road related expenses. Some repairs were explicitly due to damage from 4 wheeling the vehicle. I split the pinion yoke cost because the casting was rusted. It happened on the trail but it could have just as easily happened on the road.
A questionable decision was putting the transfer case costs as maintenance since as an on road daily driver you don't technically need it. However, it was original equipment and the repair was to make it functional. Off Road expenses are mostly due to damage to a component that was working or to enhance the off road capabilities of the vehicle.
9. Maintenance Practices - I employed good maintenance practices when doing the work on the Bronco. For example, one wheel cylinder was leaking but I also replaced the other one because it would likely fail soon as well. Likewise, I replaced all bearings and seals because they were due even though technically only a one had actually failed.
10. Elective Expenses Excluded - Expenditures that were strictly optional were excluded. For example, spray paint to paint the top and rocker panels. The paint was fine but I didn't like the color.
| Item | Initial | Maintenance | Off Road |
| 88 Bronco | 2,000.00 | ||
| 8,500lb Winch | 299.99 | ||
| ATF Fluid | 19.99 | ||
| Axle Seals | 45.12 | ||
| Ball Joints | 119.96 | ||
| Battery | 137.99 | ||
| Brake Fluid | 3.99 | ||
| Brake Shoes | 18.99 | ||
| CB Antenna 4' | 9.99 | ||
| CB Antenna Cable | 7.97 | ||
| CB Antenna Mount | 12.29 | ||
| CB Antenna Spring | 11.99 | ||
| CB Radio | 35.00 | ||
| Coolant | 65.94 | ||
| Diff Fluid | 29.98 | ||
| Diff Gaskets | 14.98 | ||
| Differential Cover | 17.99 | ||
| Driveshaft Rebuild 1 | 300.00 | ||
| Driveshaft Rebuild 2 | 250.00 | ||
| Engine Oil | 44.00 | ||
| Fan Clutch | 59.99 | ||
| Front / Rear Aussie Lockers | 550.00 | ||
| Fuel Filter | 10.99 | ||
| Grill Guard | - | ||
| Low Pressure Fuel Pump Kit | 99.99 | ||
| Oil Filter | 6.99 | ||
| Pinion Bearing | 13.99 | ||
| Pinion Yoke | 60.00 | 60.00 | |
| Power Steering Fluid | 13.98 | ||
| Power Steering Pump | 41.99 | ||
| Serpentine Belt | 27.99 | ||
| Transfer Case | 250.00 | ||
| Transfer Case Seal x 2 | 13.58 | ||
| U-Joint Back | 19.99 | ||
| U-Joint Front | 18.99 | ||
| U-Joint Retainer x2 | 4.78 | ||
| Used 33" Spare | 25.00 | ||
| Used 33" Tires x 4 (some tread left) | 125.00 | ||
| Water Pump | 32.99 | ||
| Wheel Bearings | 85.94 | ||
| Wheel Cylinders | 19.38 | ||
| Winch Hardware / Misc | 20.00 | ||
| Winch Plate | 49.99 | ||
| Winsdhield wiper fluid | 3.99 | ||
| Wiper Blades | 18.58 | ||
| Total | 2,000.00 | 1,705.33 | 1,374.95 |
| Grand Total | 5,080.28 |
Closing Comments
As you can see my $2,000 cash Bronco cost me $1,705.33 in parts. I may have missed a few things so I'd say that number could be as high as $1,800.00. Had I purchased new tires instead of cheap used 33s this number would have exceeded the initial cost of the Bronco. However, I did include the transfer case swap and driveshaft rebuild as maintenance which would have been about the same cost as new tires. Lastly, any major engine or transmission issue would have raised the number substantially as well.
For tool costs, I have a pretty complete tool collection. I would estimate I spent about $300 in specialty tools such as race drivers, spindle pullers, a joint press, etc. Many big box part stores will let you rent them for "free" but I opted for the convenience of having them on hand as needed.
Labor cost if you were paying a shop would vary greatly depending on their rate. It would be more than the $3,000 in parts which to me doesn't make sense on a vehicle that isn't worth that.
Variable costs as I mentioned earlier (taxes, insurance, fuel, etc) were about $1,600. Fuel was almost half the cost there assuming about 11mpg, ~3500 miles, and an average of $2.75/gal. Fuel numbers are estimates. The fuel/insurance/tax numbers are more accurate. With fuel prices now under $2/gal the fuel number gets a lot smaller very quickly.
For the off road crowd you'll notice the bulk of the expenses are mechanical not off road performance specific. This is probably the norm on many older rigs. Of course had I installed ARB lockers or did a solid axle swap that number could have easily exceeded the routine maintenance numbers.
Keep in mind that with all those costs, the vehicle is still far from perfect. Things that could be addressed include things like one door lock doesn't work, the driver seat back is locked in position, holes in the seat fabric, rear window switch doesn't work, ac blower motor doesn't work, body dents and dings, gauges that don't work accurate, cracked windshield, sagging headliner, starter isn't as strong as it could be, etc.
That all being said the vehicle has been rock solid reliable. I've never needed a tow but I've been suck a few times for no more than 30 minutes.
Times/Reason stuck temporarily:
1. Low pressure pump failing and would die if the vehicle didn't have over half a tank of fuel. Had to walk to get a gallon of gas.
2. Fan clutch failure caused an overheat and had to wait for engine to cool down at gas station.
3. Dead battery. Jumper box was also dead but replaced it a new battery.
4. Water pump failed and had to wait for engine to cool down on side of the road.
All of these were merely symptoms of old worn out components. And I've seen dead batteries and water pump failure happen on newer vehicles as well.
For a nearly 30 year old vehicle with over 178,300 miles that's really good. As a comparison I've had newer vehicles strand me overnight multiple times and have many worse problems. I'll be interested to see after all the work done in 2014 what the 2015 repair numbers look like. I suspect they will go down substantially because a lot of the maintenance items piled up because previous owners did not address them.
Saturday, January 10, 2015
Fully Locked and Additional Projects
A lot has been done on the Bronco as of late to make it more off road oriented. Here's the list of everything that has been done the last few weeks.
Winch Replacement
I replaced my old winch with a Rugged Ridge 8,500lb from JD Offroad Outfitters here in Texas. The old winch wasn't responding reliably when trying to use the winch remote so I decided to install the new winch and use the old one for a trailer winch in the future.
As part of the install I cut a hole in the mesh on the grill guard and filed the sharp edges to make an easy access location to plug in the winch.
Locker
An Aussie Locker was installed in the front differential (Dana 44).
Bearings and Seals
During that process I found a seal had leaked and one of the wheel bearings had started to rust and was pretty well shot. So I replaced the bearings and the seal.
Fair warning the bearings and oil seal on the rotor are pretty easy to find at a parts retailer. However, the spindle seal takes 12-24 hours to get delivered to the store. Always be sure when doing bearings to go ahead and remove the spindle hub and replace that spindle seal. I found that a bearing was rusted in less than a year from that failed spindle seal leaking water. As a precaution I replaced and re-greased everything.
So the front-end axle was totally overhauled.
Ball Joints
I installed new ball joints on the driver's side because the passenger side was done previously but the driver's side front wheel was starting to shake. A quick test confirmed the ball joints were shot and needed to be replaced.
Fuel Filter
I also replaced the fuel filter which to me has made a big difference. The Bronco seems to idle better and is more responsive when accelerating. It used to hesitate a little which I attributed to it being old.
CB Antenna
I've had a CB for a while but the antenna was magnetic and didn't work well. I went out and got a fiberglass antenna, spring, and mounting bracket and attached my antenna to the tire carrier by drilling a hole. The cheap CB seems to work much better in terms of clarity and range.
If a CB is a mod you are doing keep in mind that CB radios don't come with most of the things you need and retailers who sell the CB may not sell all the accessories. I got my CB from a big box store and had to order the antenna, mount, and antenna to CB cable online. I've had friend tell me they had the same issue of a store having a radio but no accessories or limited accessories.
Good Practice Maintenance
I make it a habit of periodically checking fluids in my vehicles. This time everything was good except the coolant. Upon inspection I found a hose clamp on the water pump hose had moved a little which was the likely source of a leak and fixed it. I should know after my mini road trip tomorrow if that fixed the issue or not.
New/Emerging Issues
So a developing few issues. When I lifted the front end to install the locker some oil dripped out from the top of the transfer case skid plate suggesting there is a slow leak; possibly the rear main seal.. Some gas also dripped from the tank skid plate suggesting that the tank is rusted or has a small hole somewhere. The steering assembly (tie rod ends, bushings, etc) are in need of some attention as well but will be replaced as part of the lift I have planned soon.
As I've mentioned before I try to track a lot of these little maintenance items for those looking to buy a Bronco. I will try and tally up the 2014 expenses at some point and do a post on the cost of ownership of an old Bronco. It won't include fuel cost because I don't track that and it may be hard to find receipts for all the parts I've purchased but I can look them up online.
Winch Replacement
I replaced my old winch with a Rugged Ridge 8,500lb from JD Offroad Outfitters here in Texas. The old winch wasn't responding reliably when trying to use the winch remote so I decided to install the new winch and use the old one for a trailer winch in the future.
As part of the install I cut a hole in the mesh on the grill guard and filed the sharp edges to make an easy access location to plug in the winch.
Locker
An Aussie Locker was installed in the front differential (Dana 44).
Bearings and Seals
During that process I found a seal had leaked and one of the wheel bearings had started to rust and was pretty well shot. So I replaced the bearings and the seal.
Fair warning the bearings and oil seal on the rotor are pretty easy to find at a parts retailer. However, the spindle seal takes 12-24 hours to get delivered to the store. Always be sure when doing bearings to go ahead and remove the spindle hub and replace that spindle seal. I found that a bearing was rusted in less than a year from that failed spindle seal leaking water. As a precaution I replaced and re-greased everything.
So the front-end axle was totally overhauled.
Ball Joints
I installed new ball joints on the driver's side because the passenger side was done previously but the driver's side front wheel was starting to shake. A quick test confirmed the ball joints were shot and needed to be replaced.
Fuel Filter
I also replaced the fuel filter which to me has made a big difference. The Bronco seems to idle better and is more responsive when accelerating. It used to hesitate a little which I attributed to it being old.
CB Antenna
I've had a CB for a while but the antenna was magnetic and didn't work well. I went out and got a fiberglass antenna, spring, and mounting bracket and attached my antenna to the tire carrier by drilling a hole. The cheap CB seems to work much better in terms of clarity and range.
If a CB is a mod you are doing keep in mind that CB radios don't come with most of the things you need and retailers who sell the CB may not sell all the accessories. I got my CB from a big box store and had to order the antenna, mount, and antenna to CB cable online. I've had friend tell me they had the same issue of a store having a radio but no accessories or limited accessories.
Good Practice Maintenance
I make it a habit of periodically checking fluids in my vehicles. This time everything was good except the coolant. Upon inspection I found a hose clamp on the water pump hose had moved a little which was the likely source of a leak and fixed it. I should know after my mini road trip tomorrow if that fixed the issue or not.
New/Emerging Issues
So a developing few issues. When I lifted the front end to install the locker some oil dripped out from the top of the transfer case skid plate suggesting there is a slow leak; possibly the rear main seal.. Some gas also dripped from the tank skid plate suggesting that the tank is rusted or has a small hole somewhere. The steering assembly (tie rod ends, bushings, etc) are in need of some attention as well but will be replaced as part of the lift I have planned soon.
As I've mentioned before I try to track a lot of these little maintenance items for those looking to buy a Bronco. I will try and tally up the 2014 expenses at some point and do a post on the cost of ownership of an old Bronco. It won't include fuel cost because I don't track that and it may be hard to find receipts for all the parts I've purchased but I can look them up online.
Monday, December 8, 2014
Slime Tire Sealant
Walked outside the other day and noticed my front passenger tire was almost completely flat. That tire has been an enigma for months. Sometimes it goes flat. Sometimes it holds air. Sometimes it leaks slowly. For a vehicle that I drive on average about 200-300 miles a month I decided to try an "experiment" rather than replace the tires which could be about $1,000.
I did some research and decided to go with Slime Tire Sealant to see if it would address the issue. Products like Fix-A-Flat claim to only be good for a few miles while Slime claims to seal for up to 2 years.
Per Slime's site it is basically a liquid that contains fibers and rubber particles which form a plug as the leak/puncture forces the liquid out. So in theory I'll also be able to see where the hole is if I can see any green spots at which point I could use a plug or patch on the tire as a better long-term fix.
To use the product I simply removed the valve core using the supplied tool, filled the completely flat tire with the recommended amount of sealant, re-installed the valve core, and aired up the tire. They recommend driving about .2 miles but I ended up going a little further because I drove to the gas station and topped off all the tires since my small 12v pump is too slow.
So far it has been over 24 hours and the tire still had air in it and looked like it was still full. I didn't check yet. I'm going to check it in a few days. But so far so good. Expect updates as time goes on.
Update 12/29/14: So I've had the Slime in the tire for about 3 weeks now and tire has been holding air. I did have to top the tire off on Friday because it was down about 2-3psi. In fairness, 3 of my 4 tires were a little low and they didn't have Slime in them. Could have been due to the colder temps here in Dallas of late.
I also added some Slime to a leaky tire on my other car and it seems to have stopped the leak problem I was having in it. I will say having put Slime in 2 tires on 2 vehicles I do feel like it does throw the tire balance off a little.
Update 01/10/15: As I mentioned before, I don't drive the Bronco much except mostly to take it off roading. I'm about to upgrade to 35s from 33s so just trying to get the last few miles out of these tires that I can.
Another tire started acting up. Upon inspection I found that tire had 2-3 small nails in it. Not surprising because there has been a lot of construction all over Dallas. Hit that tire with a bottle of Slime. I now have 2 Slimed tires on the vehicle that I can compare to the 2 regular tires.
I took measurements tonight and will provide updates in the morning on the change (if any) in tire pressure.
Update 1/12/15: An interesting note I found yesterday thanks to some mud on my rim that one of the tire leaks was around the rim. After airing the tire up and driving a while it help constant pressure. This morning all tires were still full of air.
I did some research and decided to go with Slime Tire Sealant to see if it would address the issue. Products like Fix-A-Flat claim to only be good for a few miles while Slime claims to seal for up to 2 years.
Per Slime's site it is basically a liquid that contains fibers and rubber particles which form a plug as the leak/puncture forces the liquid out. So in theory I'll also be able to see where the hole is if I can see any green spots at which point I could use a plug or patch on the tire as a better long-term fix.
To use the product I simply removed the valve core using the supplied tool, filled the completely flat tire with the recommended amount of sealant, re-installed the valve core, and aired up the tire. They recommend driving about .2 miles but I ended up going a little further because I drove to the gas station and topped off all the tires since my small 12v pump is too slow.
So far it has been over 24 hours and the tire still had air in it and looked like it was still full. I didn't check yet. I'm going to check it in a few days. But so far so good. Expect updates as time goes on.
Update 12/29/14: So I've had the Slime in the tire for about 3 weeks now and tire has been holding air. I did have to top the tire off on Friday because it was down about 2-3psi. In fairness, 3 of my 4 tires were a little low and they didn't have Slime in them. Could have been due to the colder temps here in Dallas of late.
I also added some Slime to a leaky tire on my other car and it seems to have stopped the leak problem I was having in it. I will say having put Slime in 2 tires on 2 vehicles I do feel like it does throw the tire balance off a little.
Update 01/10/15: As I mentioned before, I don't drive the Bronco much except mostly to take it off roading. I'm about to upgrade to 35s from 33s so just trying to get the last few miles out of these tires that I can.
Another tire started acting up. Upon inspection I found that tire had 2-3 small nails in it. Not surprising because there has been a lot of construction all over Dallas. Hit that tire with a bottle of Slime. I now have 2 Slimed tires on the vehicle that I can compare to the 2 regular tires.
I took measurements tonight and will provide updates in the morning on the change (if any) in tire pressure.
Update 1/12/15: An interesting note I found yesterday thanks to some mud on my rim that one of the tire leaks was around the rim. After airing the tire up and driving a while it help constant pressure. This morning all tires were still full of air.
Sunday, November 30, 2014
A $400 Day Wheeling
So I took the Bronco out wheeling over the weekend and quickly turned it into a $400 day in repairs.
While going up an incline I lost power and as it turns out the rear axle yoke broke. Upon closer inspection later on I determine that the yoke was basically compromised from years of use and finally quit at an inopportune time.
I was able to drive home in 4-Hi after I disconnected the rear drive shaft. The original water pump also died on the way back at a respectable 177,500+ miles. I also found out that I needed a special sized U-Joint since the drive shaft was custom to fit the '89 transfer case I installed earlier in the year.
The drive shaft shop found that the CV joint was toast too so that had to be rebuilt. So $400 for a yoke, pinion seals (why not), new U-Joint retainers, and a water pump. In fairness, I bought the water pump a while back but $400 in parts are going on the truck this weekend.
While going up an incline I lost power and as it turns out the rear axle yoke broke. Upon closer inspection later on I determine that the yoke was basically compromised from years of use and finally quit at an inopportune time.
I was able to drive home in 4-Hi after I disconnected the rear drive shaft. The original water pump also died on the way back at a respectable 177,500+ miles. I also found out that I needed a special sized U-Joint since the drive shaft was custom to fit the '89 transfer case I installed earlier in the year.
The drive shaft shop found that the CV joint was toast too so that had to be rebuilt. So $400 for a yoke, pinion seals (why not), new U-Joint retainers, and a water pump. In fairness, I bought the water pump a while back but $400 in parts are going on the truck this weekend.
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