Winch Install

Installed a winch over the last few weeks but just now getting around to writing up the blog about it.

My buddy and I ended up reusing the stock bumper but we cut it down and made some modifications to make everything fit to give more of a stock look.

The first step was removing the bumper, supports, etc.  You basically just need some wrenches or sockets to do this but we used an air impact wrench.

For my install, I removed the frame horns because I installed a piece of plate steel to go between the frame rails.  Part of that was for strength and another part of that was the winch plate that I bought from Harbor Freight wasn't wide enough to go rail to rail.

In the photo above you can see the plate (which was painted black) and the winch plate sitting on top of it.  The key thing is that you have a strong connection to the frame and a strong mounting point for the winch.  There are 4 bolts holding the plate to the frame and 4 bolts holding the winch to the plate.  Because I wanted my setup to be recessed I had to take the control box off and lay it to the side.

For the bumper we used a considerable number (probably a dozen) cutting wheels and cut the bumper down and angled the edges to give more of an aggressive look. You'll notice most vehicles built for actual off road use have higher bumpers and/or don't fully extend the width of the vehicle. Search Google images for 'off road vehicle' if you don't believe me!  This is to make sure your tire (not your bumper) can contact obstacles and you have drive over them.  For this reason, we cut the stock bumper to clear the tires and then did some cosmetic things to make it look better.  It was all freehand with the cutting wheel with a few markings to give a basic path to follow.

We also cut a hole for the fair lead to go through.  For a template we just measured and drilled some holes at the corners and drew a line to follow.

Be sure to take a rasp and smooth the edges too because sides will be sharp and you don't want to cut yourself!

To re-attach the bumper and ensure we had enough room to reach in and access the in/out lever on the winch an plug in the remote the modded bumper had to be attached differently.  The solution we used was to cut the bumper mounts down to match the new width of the bumper and then use longer bolts and about 2 dozen (give or take) washers to space the bumper forward.

After all that we also decided to go back and weld the steel plate to the frame just to make sure everything was secure and to make it a little more difficult to steal.  You may want to tack weld a bolt holding your winch on too for this reason in case the bolts are readily accessible so someone doesn't undo a few bolts and run off with your winch!

Little Fixes and Tweaks

Had a fun moment the other day.  Bronco ran fine driving to my destination.  I got back in and it wouldn't turn over.  I tried jigging some wires and adding a gallon of gas.  I was finally able to get started enough to coast into the gas station.

Filled up the tank (it only filled a little less than the gauge said) but nothing.  After a few minutes I noticed that I couldn't hear the fuel pump running.  Sure enough the fuel pump wire was loose and securing the connection fixed it.

The next day I was checking fluid levels and noticed that there was a wire that only had 3 strands connected to the battery.  I couldn't readily trace where it went so I removed it.  Bronco wouldn't start.  So I cut and re-attached the wire correctly and started right up and actually felt like it was running better.

This week I replaced the 31x10.5r15 tires with some 33x12.5r15 tires.  My Bronco had 8.5" width rims so it was an easy swap.  I know some friends with other vehicles have 7.5" width rims and some major tire shops will not install 33s on them.

Oil change

Changed the oil on Friday night.  I used some Quaker State Defy 5w-30.  That oil has about 1000ppm of ZDDP which you need in engines running flat tappet cams like the '88 351W.

The zinc acts as a sacrificial coating and keeps parts from being worn down.  You can also find ZDDP additives but the price was right on that oil.  Most newer oils don't have these additives as the switch was made to roller cams and better technology exists to make sure metal surfaces don't rub.

I really like changing the oil on the 351w vs other engines.  The oil plug is on the bottom of the pan and the filter attaches to the side of the block at an angle so you don't spill oil everywhere when removing the filter because it mostly drains out!  With 31s on it I have more than enough room to get under and work without needing to lift the vehicle which is also nice.

I used a strap wrench to remove the filter as its a little tricky to get in there and get good leverage on it.

I'm not sure what oil was in there or the condition of it.  I did notice that my oil pressure gauge doesn't bounce around often at idle when the engine is warm like it was.  So maybe the oil was really old and a little sludgy. 

Bearing Replacement

So the list I included in the previous post was correct but there were two additional bearings.  They are in the spindle and relatively small.  I want to say the part # was B2110 but don't quote me on that.

I also went and bough some new seals for the spindle seals.  One presses in on the back of the spindle and the other traps grease on the front of the spindle.

You'll need a few tools if you don't have them to replace the bearings.

1. Bearing puller to remove the smaller bearings and races
2. Race driver to hammer in new pressed seals
3. Spindle socket.  I found the Lisle tool to be the best.  The OEM Tools one had 4 prongs that stick out and didn't match.

I also did ball joints so I needed the ball joint tool (looks like a giant clamp).

There are a lot of parts in the automatic hub and I'll have to post pictures at some point or find a link because it is not hard but a little involved to get everything back in order the right way.

Off Road Notes from 3/9/14

I took the Bronco out on Sunday to 4-wheel it a little to see how it would do with a working transfer case. It was a night and day difference!  I hit the same 3 trails where my Bronco got stuck without a working transfer case and needed a buddy to help pull me out of a few spots... this time no issues!

Cleaning the IAC fixed the stalling issue which was also appreciated when I was at stops.  The oil gauge starts to fluctuate at idle from side-to-side when the engine is warm so I will be changing out the sending unit to see if that is the issue.  If the problem persists it will be time to drop the oil pan and change the pump.  The key thing is the engine runs fine which seems to indicate a sensor vs a real oil pressure issue.

The main weakness I found with the Bronco this time out was with the 31x10.5 tires.  My buddy has 33's on his Jeep and he had no trouble in a few places where my differential would get caught.  The extra clearance from bigger tires would help with that.

There was also a period of time with some really annoying squealing which appears to be wheel bearing related.  Didn't matter 2wd vs 4wd.  Eventually the squeaky went away so I suspect the bearing worked itself back into place.  The local part store chain here sold me all the bearing parts I needed for $40 plus tax so that is cheap insurance and a little bit of work to address that concern.  I suspect if 1 bearing need replacement the others are not far behind.  Allegedly (will confirm in a future post) there is an inner and outer bearing on each side of the front axle and one bearing for each side in the back.  IE you'll need 2 bearings a side (4 total) for the front and two for the back.  Also note they're not the same.  For me the fronts are A35 and A37.  The rears are #6408.  Check for your application but this is for a '88 Bronco with stock axles.

I believe in the '91+ models they may have some extra parts from what I found searching around online.

Lastly, I also decided to buy some new ball joints to address the sloppy steering.

I'm hoping to complete the work this weekend and will also be adding a winch.  I also have a few other projects in the pipeline.  Always work to be done on older vehicles!

Low Pressure Fuel Pump Installed

I bought a low pressure fuel pump from O'Reilly on Saturday and it solved the problem of the Bronco dying around half a tank.

I purchased the entire assembly (pump, fuel gauge, etc) for about $99 + tax.  My tank was metal and it had a metal retaining ring that hold the pump in place.

First you have to remove the feed and return fuel line and sender.  The sender simply unplugs.  My feed line had a plastic clip that easily came off.  The return line was hose clamped on.  Fuel will come out of these fittings so keep them propped up.  Some coat hanger is handy to build a simple bracket.  You might want to use some tape to mark the lines just in case but the one with the hose clamp was my return line so that is how I remembered which is which.

To prevent sparks around fuel it is best to use something like a brass punch to knock the ring loose.  I used a pry bar that I wrapped with cloth and electrical tape as a makeshift solution.  You simply put your "punch" against one of the 3 tabs and using a hammer knock the ring counter clockwise.

The pump assembly lifts out but be careful; the barrel on my old pump fell off during removal.  It takes some maneuvering but the whole assembly will come out.

Then replace the unit.  Secure the pump using retaining ring, reconnect the lines, and you're done.

Note:  The access panel was great because my return line was leaking which I easily fixed by opening the access hatch.  If you don't have a hatch you might want to test connections for leaks prior to putting everything back together.

 

 

UPDATE 3/28/14: There are two notches on the bottom of the tank low pressure pump which match up to two holes on the lip of the fuel tank.  You need to make sure the pump is lined up and those notches are in place.  It may mean the pump points slightly off to one side.  I did not have the notches lined up initially and it caused fuel to splash out when the tank was full even though the pump appeared to be locked properly in place.  Also make sure the tank o-ring/seal is lined up to provide a proper seal.

How To Flat Tow a Bronco

Just a quick post on flat towing.  This really only works well for short distance towing since there will be dash lights on/etc.  Towing on a trailer would be better.

Setup:
You will need a tow bar, the appropriate bracket hardware, and some type of towing light setup.  I used a 5,000lb tow bar and magnetic lights.  The tow bar brackets were attached to the bumper.

Procedure:
1.  Attach Bronco to tow vehicle via tow bar.

2. You will put the transfer case in neutral.  I have a manual shift so I did this by putting the transmission in neutral and shifting.  You'll know you are in neutral when there are no drive lights on the dash and in drive on the transmission you don't go anywhere.

3.  Turn the Bronco to the accessory position.  The transmission can be in park or neutral; doesn't matter since its disconnected at this point from the transfer case.

4. You need the accessory position on so the steering wheel won't lock.  However, you'll likely notice that the fuel pump is still running.  Go under the Bronco and pull the power for the fuel pump. It is a red wire at the front (pointing towards the engine).  This is optional but I feel like it is better for the pump and consumes less power (less battery drain).  Also be sure to turn off radio and other accessories.  You'll still have 2 dash lights illuminated as you tow.

5. Ensure turn signal lights are connected and working properly.  Make sure safety chain is connected properly.