Things have been going really well post engine re-seal but ran into a little electrical setback. When the engine is cool everything cranks over just fine. When the engine is warm the starter is slow to turn over and now won't turn over at all. Lights even start to dim, etc. You might be inclined to think it is a weak battery or failing alternator but both check out fine once everything starts.
The cables to the solenoid and the solenoid get really hot and I even saw the solenoid smoking a little in these "warm start" scenarios. The three likely candidates currently are the solenoid, wires, or starter. The solenoid is $20, starter is about $80, and new cables/connectors will run about $30.
Other considerations include there might be a small exhaust leak on the passenger side manifold which might be causing warm exhaust air to go blow on the starter. This would mean even changing all these other parts the problem could persist. There are heat shields which run about $30 which could help. Also, a poor ground connection could also cause some issues and is worth re-checking all the connections.
I already have a spare solenoid laying around, came with the truck, so I'm going to try it first and see what happens. If the new one and the cables get warm then I know that the problem is the wiring or starter. Changing the wiring without seeing a change will confirm an issue with the starter.
Normally I would just change all the parts in one go and be done with it. However, I want to be able to provide more in depth diagnostic information for readers. Stay tuned.
Sunday, February 21, 2016
Tuesday, February 2, 2016
Engine Reseal
The Problem & Course of Action
So I decided to go ahead and do a top-end reseal on the Bronco's 351w by replacing the head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, intake gaskets, etc.
The motivating factor was a growing list of issues that suggested a problem with the head gasket and other upper engine gaskets. The top 4 issues included...
1. Constant white smoke; especially when warming up. Indicates coolant leaking into the combustion chamber.
2. Loss/leaking of coolant. As in the entire reservoir empty and not enough under the truck to to be explained by a simple leak.
3. Loss of oil/leaking oil. Appeared to be from top of the motor and dripping down but again not enough to explain the loss.
4. Heavy black smoke under heavy acceleration. Normally indicates running rich.
The gasket was probably damaged in one or both of the overheating incidents early on in 2015. One was from the fan clutch going bad and the other was the water pump going out.
Also replacing the upper engine gaskets eliminates those components as being responsible if leaks continue. IE if the motor keeps losing oil it would leave oil pan gasket or main seals which require pulling the engine. If the engine was pulled these gaskets wouldn't have to be replaced so there was no reason not to try them first.
The Results
Once the reseal was done the white smoke stopped. Engine seemed to idle better. I also added a new distributor since I was going to replace the cap and rotor along with the ignition coil, plugs, and wires. Spending the $90 on a distributor to remove any concern about ignition issues seemed logical.
The running rich issue seemed resolved. To be honest, I didn't take inventory of which vacuum lines or sensors were connected. I also didn't check the engine timing prior to the reseal. So its possible the timing was off a bit as well. I will continue to monitor that situation but the vehicle drives and performs as expected.
An interesting issue was that the vehicle was slow to turn over once it warmed up. That seems to be resolved after I thoroughly cleaned the starter solenoid with some brake cleaner.
General Findings
1. Passenger side of the motor had some issues. Oil and water passages were gummed up.
2. Heavy sludge build-up on the passenger side. The driver's side had some too (the engine is nearly 30 years old) but not nearly as bad.
3. All spark plugs were fouled.
4. No obvious signs of a blown gasket. IE neither was visibly broken or cracked. However, there was one spot where the fire ring on the passenger side that looked blurred between cylinders 1 and 2. A fire ring on a properly sealed engine should be a continuous circle.
5. Some of the vacuum lines were not connected properly.
6. One of the coolant leaks was a loose hose clamp.
Odd Finding
1. Random debris in engine: plastic cap in distributor hole & two tiny metal rings in passenger valve cover.
Tips & Tricks
- Exhaust bolts connecting manifold to the exhaust will most break; plan to have replacements on hand.
- Manifold bolts may not want to thread back in; may need to have replacements on hand. You also might need a Tap & Die set to resolve this as the bolts are likely to corrode.
- It would be OK to reuse the throttle body and lower intake gaskets if they're still good and in better material than the replacement set.
- Mark the position of the distributor to make it easier to re-install without having to reset the timing. Keep in mind when the engine warms up that the EGR will try and advance timing and the engine will stall or misfire if it is improperly connected.
- If you didn't mark your distributor you can set the engine to TDC by putting a socket on the lower crank pulley and turning it. The rotor should point to the "1" on the distributor when at TDC. If not, turn the cap until it is.
- Stock the 351w's timing was advanced 10 degrees from my reading. I'm going to check timing with a timing light and will report on this more later.
Specialty Tools
- Quick Disconnect Tools for fuel line, spring loaded. (The plastic discs didn't work, you need the cylinder type)
General Tools
- Socket wrench (1/4 & 3/8 drive)
- SAE Socket (mix of shallow and deep sockets)
- Torq screw set (T-40?; needed to remove one bolt on the intake)
- Multiple lengths of extensions (some areas are hard to reach)
- 3/8" breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
- Scraper (to remove old gasket material)
Tools That Will Help
- Air Impact
- Air Wrench
- Vacuum
- Air Compressor
- Die grinder with a reloc disk to remove old gasket material
Required Parts
- Gasket set (cylinder heads, exhaust manifold, and intake)
- New head bolts (I recommend ARP)
- New exhaust bolts (most parts stores can get them same day)
- New intake bolts (Note: Summit's $9 set wasn't correct; too short and no studs were included)
- New oil & filter (coolant and sludge will likely get into the oil when removing everything
Tune Up Parts (optional)
- New spark plugs
- New cap & rotor
- New ignition coil
So I decided to go ahead and do a top-end reseal on the Bronco's 351w by replacing the head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, intake gaskets, etc.
The motivating factor was a growing list of issues that suggested a problem with the head gasket and other upper engine gaskets. The top 4 issues included...
1. Constant white smoke; especially when warming up. Indicates coolant leaking into the combustion chamber.
2. Loss/leaking of coolant. As in the entire reservoir empty and not enough under the truck to to be explained by a simple leak.
3. Loss of oil/leaking oil. Appeared to be from top of the motor and dripping down but again not enough to explain the loss.
4. Heavy black smoke under heavy acceleration. Normally indicates running rich.
The gasket was probably damaged in one or both of the overheating incidents early on in 2015. One was from the fan clutch going bad and the other was the water pump going out.
Also replacing the upper engine gaskets eliminates those components as being responsible if leaks continue. IE if the motor keeps losing oil it would leave oil pan gasket or main seals which require pulling the engine. If the engine was pulled these gaskets wouldn't have to be replaced so there was no reason not to try them first.
The Results
Once the reseal was done the white smoke stopped. Engine seemed to idle better. I also added a new distributor since I was going to replace the cap and rotor along with the ignition coil, plugs, and wires. Spending the $90 on a distributor to remove any concern about ignition issues seemed logical.
The running rich issue seemed resolved. To be honest, I didn't take inventory of which vacuum lines or sensors were connected. I also didn't check the engine timing prior to the reseal. So its possible the timing was off a bit as well. I will continue to monitor that situation but the vehicle drives and performs as expected.
An interesting issue was that the vehicle was slow to turn over once it warmed up. That seems to be resolved after I thoroughly cleaned the starter solenoid with some brake cleaner.
General Findings
1. Passenger side of the motor had some issues. Oil and water passages were gummed up.
2. Heavy sludge build-up on the passenger side. The driver's side had some too (the engine is nearly 30 years old) but not nearly as bad.
3. All spark plugs were fouled.
4. No obvious signs of a blown gasket. IE neither was visibly broken or cracked. However, there was one spot where the fire ring on the passenger side that looked blurred between cylinders 1 and 2. A fire ring on a properly sealed engine should be a continuous circle.
5. Some of the vacuum lines were not connected properly.
6. One of the coolant leaks was a loose hose clamp.
Odd Finding
1. Random debris in engine: plastic cap in distributor hole & two tiny metal rings in passenger valve cover.
Tips & Tricks
- Exhaust bolts connecting manifold to the exhaust will most break; plan to have replacements on hand.
- Manifold bolts may not want to thread back in; may need to have replacements on hand. You also might need a Tap & Die set to resolve this as the bolts are likely to corrode.
- It would be OK to reuse the throttle body and lower intake gaskets if they're still good and in better material than the replacement set.
- Mark the position of the distributor to make it easier to re-install without having to reset the timing. Keep in mind when the engine warms up that the EGR will try and advance timing and the engine will stall or misfire if it is improperly connected.
- If you didn't mark your distributor you can set the engine to TDC by putting a socket on the lower crank pulley and turning it. The rotor should point to the "1" on the distributor when at TDC. If not, turn the cap until it is.
- Stock the 351w's timing was advanced 10 degrees from my reading. I'm going to check timing with a timing light and will report on this more later.
Specialty Tools
- Quick Disconnect Tools for fuel line, spring loaded. (The plastic discs didn't work, you need the cylinder type)
General Tools
- Socket wrench (1/4 & 3/8 drive)
- SAE Socket (mix of shallow and deep sockets)
- Torq screw set (T-40?; needed to remove one bolt on the intake)
- Multiple lengths of extensions (some areas are hard to reach)
- 3/8" breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
- Scraper (to remove old gasket material)
Tools That Will Help
- Air Impact
- Air Wrench
- Vacuum
- Air Compressor
- Die grinder with a reloc disk to remove old gasket material
Required Parts
- Gasket set (cylinder heads, exhaust manifold, and intake)
- New head bolts (I recommend ARP)
- New exhaust bolts (most parts stores can get them same day)
- New intake bolts (Note: Summit's $9 set wasn't correct; too short and no studs were included)
- New oil & filter (coolant and sludge will likely get into the oil when removing everything
Tune Up Parts (optional)
- New spark plugs
- New cap & rotor
- New ignition coil
 |
| Random debris found in the distributor hole. |
 |
| Drilling out a broken bolt from an exhaust manifold/ |
 |
| Tub of Simple Green where the cylinder heads and intake soaked to help remove sludge. |
 |
| Prepping the surfaces by removing old gasket material with a reloc disc. |
 |
| Partially disassembled; accessories removed, valve covers, and upper intake. |
 |
| Look to the left and you can see some "pinhole" shaped openings next to the circles then look below. |
 |
| After cleaning you can see the "pinhole" shapes were much larger ports that were blocked. |
 |
| A cylinder head after soaking and being sprayed off. |
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